Days out

I have got behind with blogging as I'm sure there are lots of things I wanted to blog, but have not got round to.  For example, I spent a lovely couple of hours at the Botanical Gardens (finally got there) and enjoyed looking at the fat cacti, the palms, and some pretty flowers. Naturally there are lots of photos for the family to sit through when I am back (get some comfortable cushions, we will have to do the photos in a few sittings haha).

botanical gardens

from Giardini Naxos 

Jo and I have been escaping Catania at every opportunity with our favourite getaway being Giardini Naxos, which is the beach before Taormina. You can be there on the coach after about 45 minutes. I say that but yesterday's getaway was not so straightforward. It was the May Day bank holiday so, in Bank Holiday tradition, most people had had the same idea and were heading to either Giardini or Taormina. The first coach sailed past, full. We waited for an hour for the next one. Luckily we were by a cafe.  The next coach let us on but it took ages to get there as you've guessed it, Bank Holiday queues meant we went at the pace of a snail.
Anyway the beach wasn't that full and we began our now obligatory "Dolphin Watch" - a couple of weekends ago we were lucky enough to see some fins poking out of the water - Jo spotted one first and I was a bit doubtful until I saw it myself. But then, to the accompaniment of loud squeals, one dolphin came tantalisingly close to the beach and we could see its grey skin and we knew beyond doubt it was a dolphin. That was very exciting. We're hoping to have a repeat of it one day.

So today we also fancied a trip out, but having looked at all the options, we decided to stay local. It is one of the downsides of Sicily that public transport is not that great (you might like to guess why). Trains are apparently very slow and although buses are okay, they don't go everywhere. I really want to go to Palermo again to see the mummies and some other things, but a bridge has broken on the main route and so the bus has to go on a massive detour. A trip of 2 and a half hours now takes 3 and half to 4. Neither Jo nor I fancied spending our entire day on a bus.  I would love to go and see some really amazing mosaics not too far from here. We can get to Enna on the bus. But the mosaics are in a town 5km from there. Not even in the town. So there is no easy way to get there. Buses are not regular and taxis apparently cost a bomb and as we are all trying not to return to the UK penniless, it doesn't seem an option. We don't know people with a car, or at least, not to ask to ferry us around Sicily. It really is a shame, but it's too bad. Even flights to nearby Malta are extortionate (although I've not heard a good word about the place).

Etna again but from Taormina

So today we thought - the beach near Catania. (The coast near us is all volcanic lava). The beach with sand is out near the airport. The airport bus! we thought and headed onto Corso Italia. Turns out it doesn't stop there after all. So a woman at the bus stop suggested Acicastello. That has a beach, she said. We waited for a bus for ages without any luck and eventually walked to the train station. Apparently trains don't go to Acicastello, so back to waiting for a bus. We encountered an English couple at the bus stop, just arrived in Sicily for ten days - they had had the same idea and the same problems as us. Eventually after we'd told them our story, the bus came and we all clung on for dear life as it hurtled to our destination. So Acicastello doesn't have a beach after all. Just lava rocks. But it does have a castle (hence the name).  We clambered over the crocodile-skin-like rocks (they really hurt) and sat near the water, which was a lovely turquoise near the edge. There were little rock pools and we were delighted to see little dark crabs scuttle out into the sunlight and then hastily run back into a crack in the rocks. No dolphins though, but there was a weird cloud in the sky, which must have come from Etna.

the castle

cacti garden

Once it got too windy to sit there, we gave up and went back to the piazza for a (by now) essential
coffee. By coffee I mean espresso - they are so dark and rich and addictive, we both think we'll miss them and actually have withdrawal symptoms back in the UK, and both say we don't sleep properly. But there's not much else to do apart from sit and have coffee at the cafes. Of course, we saw the English couple there doing the same thing. I managed an ice cream (melon and peach). There was even grass and kids playing, something you don't see in Catania.  The castle is quite old but it looked a bit dark and as though there would only be a few damp walls to look at. But we had a pleasant surprise! It had a friendly ticket man and he promised us there was a garden there. Lo and behold, through a doorway there was a lovely secluded cacti garden with some fabulous plants and a great view over the sea, with swifts swooping overhead. There was also a great view out to Acitrezza (where a giant threw the rocks into the sea, apparently) and over the rooves of Acicastello. So a nice end to the day, and the ticket man even told us where to get the bus back.

Acitrezza from Acicastello castle

Easter Sunday

Easter Sunday was of course, time to get up and go to church, but instead of doing that we had a coffee in the piazza in Pozzallo and marvelled at the crowds of people who had turned out to look at each other.

Good Friday had been strange enough, when we had accidentally ended up in the middle of the festivities: first of all we had seen everyone going into the church and Ella had sneaked in for a look, and I followed. Everyone was going up to a reclining figure of Jesus (lifesize) and touching the red-painted "wound" in his side. Ella wanted to be part of it so she also touched the wound. Then we ran out. Later that same evening we'd been trying to get out of Pozzallo, but every way we turned there were crowds in the way. It was odd, it was as if they couldn't decide if it was a serious occasion (death of Christ and all that) or a huge celebration (surely that should wait until Sunday?) because there were balloon sellers everywhere. All a bit incongruous with the body of Jesus, I'd say. Anyway we were trying to find a clear road and then Ella turned the car along the main street and ended up behind the almost static procession of everyone following Jesus. Of course, an official looking woman turned us away and we tried to ignore people's stares.

Pozzallo Easter Sunday crowds

Sunday was simply (or so it seemed) an excuse for everyone to look at each other. They were dressed in their very finest, almost like if we Brits were going to a wedding or something. Despite the hot weather, everyone still wears their winter coats and scarves: seriously, it is not cold and yet they must be so used to scorching temperatures that something in the mid-twenties feels cool to them. So we get stared at constantly for not wearing a coat and we are staring at them for wrapping up like it's winter. So as we enjoyed another coffee, they all stood doing nothing in the piazza, waiting for Jesus, maybe, but mostly eyeing each other's designer outfits and ridiculous heels. (Many of them wear the highest heels imaginable).

Easter Sunday, Pozzallo

We went to another beach for the day, at Marzamemi, where we were a bit assaulted by the wind, but nevertheless it was quite peaceful and relaxing. We had a look around the village and by some weird coincidence, Ella bumped into someone she knew who happened to be there on his friend's boat, so that gave us the chance to have a quick look on board. It also turned out that over Easter weekend it was traditional for people from Catania to come there to hang out. I felt that we'd come to get away from the Catanesi but never mind.

On the Monday we had to return the car, so we spent an easy day relaxing. In the evening we watched the sunset on the beach was quite lovely.

Easter - Ipsica and Modica

I know it is a bit late to be blogging about Easter but we had a nice trip to south east Sicily, based near Pozzallo, a quiet seaside town, with a rather nice waffle shop where we enjoyed many waffles opposite the seafront.  We stayed in a small self catering apartment, in a Mediterranean looking complex - it was deserted when we arrived but the next day hoards of Sicilians descended for an Easter get-away and it turned out to be similar in nature to a Butlins, with organised entertainment for them (which, luckily, we were not included in).

the apartments

Pozzallo

We got in a lovely morning's sunbathing by the swimming pool, when it was still empty. The water was freezing, but being a true Brit, I pretended it was fine and immersed myself to get the shock over quickly.

On the first morning we had a rather fortuitous trip to the airport to hire a car (lucky because we ended up not being able to hire a car there, and found a cheaper and much nicer one in Pozzallo, and because I had a chance meeting with a former student).  Etna looked stunning from the airport: she is still snow-covered and sometimes takes your breath away. I swear she sometimes has a hand in things. Perhaps I've been here too long.

We went on several day trips to towns not that far from Pozzallo. It's the area where Montalbano is filmed, with the Baroque towns of Ragusa, Modica and Noto that attract tourists. We went via Ipsica to Modica. Ipsica was a rather appealing little town with several churches - everywhere has as many churches as English villages have pubs. It is quite surprising to see them all on every corner. Ipsica was all done up for Good Friday - there were lights rather like we have at Xmas, and a rather disturbing centrepiece depicting Jesus carrying his cross and being led by a black man. Ella was less than impressed as it's hardly a positive image. Inside the church we were simply befuddled by the bizarre decorations: aside from the usual blue and gold gaudy decorations, there were lots of flowers laid down in front of a carving of Jesus and whoever else, like at a funeral or wedding. But even stranger, along the walls there were freaky looking dolls hanging staring down at you. But not even that was the weirdest thing - hanging among the freaky dolls were what seemed to be plastic bits of limbs such as knee joints, a hand, a foot.

What!? For me, (not a phrase, I know, but it is now that we hear students use it so often) - For me, the weirdest thing, hanging near some dolls, was a bunch of carrots. A bunch of carrots. Jo swore this was for the Easter bunny. Oh and on the ceiling, a carved picture of someone hammering a nail into someone's head. We got out of there pretty fast.

Modica

Modica is a larger town and famous for its chocolate. Except none of us actually like the chocolate as it's quite strong and kind of grainy - you can taste the sugar grains. Modica was sweet though and we climbed up the hills to "Modica alta" (high Modica) from where we had a super view across the town.

All trips were punctuated by regular stops for coffee (espresso), to which I am sure I am now addicted. It really is so good here. I'm sure it's how they keep people here, as how can you go back to England when the coffee is nothing like the same.

beach near apartment

apartment pool

In love with a Harris hawk

Today was excellent as we got out of Catania (always a good thing) and made it in time to the coach station and caught the coach to Siracusa (Syracuse). It took about an hour and twenty minutes. Just on the edge of Siracusa is an impressive amphitheatre; we were all ready to get off the coach and visit it but the coach did not stop there, so another day maybe.

going from Siracusa to Ortigia

Me with Harris hawk

I say Siracusa but in fact we walked across the bridge to Ortigia, a little peninsula connected to the mainland. It was a lovely sunny day and so we wandered around the narrow streets, which have pretty balconies and architecture. The whole place was much quieter and cleaner than Catania. It is surrounded by sea. On our way through a piazza, there was a man with a bird of prey. I've never held one and he didn't seem fussed about how much it would cost, so I put on the glove and the bird hopped on to my arm. It was a beautiful bird, not heavy at all, with a lovely white and brown tail and big yellow talons. I really enjoyed being so close to such an intelligent bird. I have just contacted the Hawk and Owl Trust on Twitter and they kindly identified it for me as a Harris hawk. Jo also had a turn holding the hawk.

We stopped for pizza in a small restaurant. I had a delicious ricotta and spinach calzone; Ella thought she had ordered a pizza with salmon on but when it arrived there was no sign of the salmon. Instead it turned out she'd ordered one with pear on, yes pear - and had asked originally for extra onion. The Italians may turn up their noses at our version of pizzas with pineapple on them, but pear? I tried a piece and it really was unpleasant. The pear was cooked and just tasted slimy.

We wandered along the coast and went down to the sea. The sun was shining and it got quite warm. The water was very clear and the shore was shingly, with a fascinating mix of pebbles. Some were pieces of house tiles, like Jo and I have seen before at Giardini Naxos. Jo and Sticky, Ella's mate who is visiting from the UK, are excellent at skimming pebbles. I gave it a go and was pleased just to manage three skims, the one time. As usual, we all found pebbles or shells we wanted to bring home, and yet they never look as good once you get back.

As we were walking around the coast, with the sea below us, I saw a sudden flash of unmistakably electric blue - a bird, it must have been a sort of kingfisher, was perched halfway up the sea wall. As everyone tried to see what I was looking at, it took off again and the blue flashed for everyone to see. Jo and Sticky seemed interested even if Ella and Luna weren't! It flew on to a rock in the sea and then away.

On our way back we stopped for ice cream (Ella wasn't tempted by the pear) but I chose a bad combination of strawberry and turron. Having to match flavours is not my strong point, despite getting practice whenever I can!

Ella's aunt has sent her a "selfie stick", which is an extendable stick for your mobile phone so you can take photos of yourself from a distance - because your arms aren't long enough to get a good shot. So we had to (on her orders) get into lots of group shots, but it was nice and she got some good pictures of the five of us. It was a really nice day because we all got along well and it felt really good to be out of Catania. Everyone was keen to do more trips so I hope it happens more regularly in future. There are plenty of places in Sicily that we would all like to see and the coaches seem to go everywhere.