There is life in Catania

I was both pleased and relieved yesterday to discover a new side to some of the Catanese people. My fellow teachers and I agree on the general traits of Sicilian people we have met and the students we have spoken to, regarding things such as their knowledge of other countries, their hopes and ambitions. Many people seem to think and do similar things.

However yesterday was a real revelation. A student of mine, the one who helped me with my Italian, kindly agreed to help me set up a post office account, so that I can transfer money without losing it in commission and the exchange rate next time I have some saved up. She came round to help me register for the account on line. She knew that all things Italian are less than straightforward so I was very grateful that she had taken me along to a friend of hers who works in the Post Office, earlier in the week, and he explained how it all worked. He was very nice and she asked me afterwards if I'd noticed his rather striking blue eyes. Yes, I did happen to notice them and had to concentrate hard on what he was saying rather than let them distract me.  I also noticed his a) wedding ring and b) religious figure under his computer screen, so that helped me focus. But he was very helpful and we have to return next week to set up the account.

So after we had registered online yesterday, Giovanna took me along to a talk that was connected to her course at university, on gender studies. There was a woman writer who had been an active feminist throughout the last 40 years, attending demos in Catania. Catania, of all places! I never knew that such things existed here: the general feeling is that most men are in the dark ages and that they've never heard of feminism. So to hear that women were actively standing up against this was wonderful to know. We went along to a small room in a centre that seemed to be an alternative sort of meeting place - I am very keen to see what other events they have there. The women there weren't the usual type who look you up and down if you are wearing inferior outfits or haven't brushed your hair. No they seemed to be normal women in alternative clothing and after the talk (if we'd been able to stay) there was a VEGAN dinner! VEGAN! I haven't even heard the word in Catania, and had earlier had to pick bits of ham out of a supposedly vegetarian arancino - it was amazing! Giovanna's lecturer was there and she was a delight to meet - she has lived in the UK for 8 years so spoke English fluently. We gabbled away together and I discovered she'd worked at Warwick University and so of course knew of the internationally important Cultural Studies Centre which had been at Birmingham University until the stupid place closed it down. So that was fabulous. And she asked if I liked Catania - Giovanna said no, I hated it - and she totally understood why and said she'd had to return and had now got stuck there. So it was marvellous to see liked-minded intelligent people who up to this point have been nowhere on the radius.

Afterwards things just improved. We went to a talk - I had no idea what it was about as Giovanna and I take a while to communicate anything! - and it turned out to be on an international group called Sea Shepherd, who patrol the seas and oceans and actively fight against people like the Japanese who are still whaling, often illegally. We had missed some of the talk and it's probably a good thing because there were clips of poor dolphins being killed. I can do without seeing that. But there was a wonderfully inspiring clip of a Sea Shepherd patrol stopping a huge Japanese whaling ship which was trying to refuel. There were two tiny Sea Shepherd boats against this huge bully of a ship. The Japanese ship started to ram the tiny boat and the captain told them he was not moving and that if they continued to ram, they would turn the boat over. Eventually, the Japanese vessel had to give up, because they presumably could not justify killing anyone in their bullying tactics. This lad said about standing up to bullies - and he was right. It was great to see people defending the lives of our intelligent sea creatures with such dedication and passion.

There is a Sea Shepherd group in Siracusa, down the coast, which is patrolling the waters and protecting the sea urchins and other creatures, who are protected in that area. You can read more about it on this blog and also here. I missed them explaining this so I asked Giovanna's friend afterwards, who gives up his time to volunteer. He grabbed his English-speaking friend and pushed him towards me so the poor chap got the job of explaining everything to me. However, his English was excellent (his mother is an English teacher) so he and I had a good natter about things - turned out he'd spent some time in Bath of all places! He and his friends are Environmental Science students! So afterwards Giovanna and her friends and I hung out for a bit and it was so, so nice to have met some interesting and intelligent people who care about the same things as I do - I really hope we can all meet up again and that I can continue to find new things to interest me.

Oh, and many Sea Shepherd members don't eat meat either!!! :-))))) You don't know how happy this makes me feel.
http://www.seashepherd.org/

Lungomare

First view of the sea

It is nice to be on the coast, as who doesn't like to look out to sea, even on a day where there's no sun? It takes about 5 minutes, if that, to walk down to the lungomare, where everyone walks or jogs up and down. Couples strolling along, kids with families, dogs on their walks. I have tried to do some walking every day recently, to keep the endorphins hanging around and to keep cheerful. Couldn't the other day as we had a terrific storm with lots of hailstones that looked like snow on some roads, lightning and torrential rain, and thunderclaps that shook the doors.

Where is Etna? Hidden from view

But back to the lungomare, where you still have to tread carefully thanks to careless dog owners, and where you can walk alongside the sea until you reach a spectacular view of Etna. Last post you will see her rising above the city. Last weekend, however, she was nowhere to be seen, hidden behind grey cloud, as if she wasn't there at all. Yesterday you could only see some of her and there appears to be more snow, following the storm.

There is a little harbour area with boats: I even thought it looked nice yesterday so I must be feeling more cheerful this week. There is also a little building with a sign saying it was a Spanish defence post, or something, from a few hundred years ago. It doesn't look that old to me and has graffiti over it so I didn't take a picture.

Quite pretty for Catania

Last weekend the weather was grey and the sea was being blown by the wind. I stood and watched the waves hitting the rocks; always quite mesmerising. The surf was being blown up in tiny droplets, into my face. It is normally much calmer.

January blues? And how to buy shoes

I haven't blogged since I returned, because I have been finding it difficult since I came back: the inevitable result of two weeks back home with Christmas films, snack items and the family.  But I am back into the teaching rhythm now, and this week's lessons mostly went well. I was focussing on pronunciation with one level, which was rewarding, and another group made some nice comments. I have some new students this term which has changed the dynamic in some classes.

The sailing boats

Coming back to the sun is one good thing, although even that was missing when I first arrived. The last two weekends have been warm and sunny and so I have taken to walking along the lungomare, the sea front, and then sitting for half an hour or more to soak up some vitamin D and warmth. I took my coat off last weekend (it was way too hot) but many of the Italians still feel the need for an added layer and they can spot that I am foreign and ask if I am not cold. Today I walked up to the end and I think I saw two cormorants fishing in the sea. There were some boats on the water, as last Saturday; I think they are people having sailing lessons.  At the end of the lungomare Etna rises above the city - she really does have some strange hold over people. You can't help but stare. There is always wisps of smoke at the top (last week grey, today white) and a bit of snow on the side.

See what I mean? You can't take your eyes off her

The sea is about 12 feet or more below the road so don't get the wrong idea, there are no nice beach walks. The most we have is some scrappy bit of grey sand and these enormous boulders - you look in the sea and there are more round rocks there too. There's also some weird, huge concrete blocks in two places. Ella, Jo and I sat on one the other day and listened to the waves.

The round rocks

The sun on the sea is dazzling, and one night last week it was the moonlight that looked beautiful on the water.

It is harder than I ever expected to live somewhere else, specially not speaking Italian well. I am determined to improve - which is not helped by the fact the promised lessons have not materialised - but I have got books and people willing to help and I have been practising as much as I can. Today a really nice girl, one of my students, helped me; we talked about how to buy clothes and then mooched around some shops and she made me speak to the shop assistant...she'd make a good teacher!

I want to meet more people my age. My housemates/fellow teachers are all lovely, but I am not into the same things. There is a conversation group that meets when I'm teaching plus there are people who want to meet for conversation exchanges so I will see what happens.

Sun on the water

It being Sicily, you expect romance, what with all the dark, good looking men. But by their own admission, Sicilians are not the best choice. Too many jealousy issues, affairs and men living with their mothers. My January blues involved affairs of the heart. I really liked someone, he really liked me, but for simple reasons it's a no-go. One second it was yes, the next, no. And it has been hard because we can't communicate well. So I'm afraid I let it send me into a gloom. But that's life, I guess, and it is not a stupid film where love wins the day. But I have had some invaluable support from people back home and for that I am very grateful.

Perhaps it's because it's an island, but most Catanese love Catania and have no interest in venturing outside it. It feels a bit claustrophobic. I have just finished watching Sue Perkins's trip up the Mekong River - what a wonderfully interesting and thought provoking series. She really challenged her own and the viewers' perceptions and learned so much from visiting such different places. Totally recommended viewing and a welcome reminder that there is life outside Sicily.

Finally, I am hoping today won't be my last blog - I have a bureau in my room where the lid falls open if you don't lock it. I was bending to clean (of all things) when it fell open and whacked me hard on the head. There's a small bump there and it's still sore even now.

End of the year

So I reached the end of term and it all went okay. Went for a particularly nice pizza with my pre-intermediates on the last day. At my request they tried talking to me more in Italian - now I know how they feel as I needed them to speak slower and repeat themselves. But it was fun.

Ella and I discovered we were on the same flight home which was nice as it made the airport experience less boring. I said goodbye to Darcy three times in the end - once in school, then she was at the pizza place, and then she kindly took us to the airport. There was an amazing view of Etna that I've missed before - it must have been in cloud. Ella and I made each other laugh in the airport. We were getting a coffee and she said I would have to attract the guy's attention for mine - that he was probably called Giuseppe, or Francesco, or Alessio, or Alessandro or one of the several names that they all seem to be called. Sure enough when he turned round his name badge said Giuseppe, and so we started laughing. Then the second guy came to the counter and was called Alessandro, and that set us off. By the time we caught sight of the third guy and he was called Francesco, we were doubled over laughing and had to move away in case they thought we were crazy.

It is very relaxing to be back in England where the weather is suitably cold for this time of year and where you can have a conversation with a stranger, for instance about train tickets, and understand everything they are saying. Being able to make small talk was also a refreshing change.

I did find myself missing the Italian sound though so I sneaked in a bit of Montalbano after the usual Christmas films, to see if I could understand it better - of course I still need subtitles but I found it was easier to hear more words.

Today I was transferring things to watch over to my hard drive so I have something to look at when I go back. I happened to see on there the recording of "Dinner for One" - funnily enough New Year's Eve is the traditional day in the year when Germans and other European countries watch this old comedy sketch with England's own Freddie Frinton.  You can read about it here.  The original sketch is on YouTube.

I must have heard the script a hundred times when we made our own version a few years ago. Here I am in the starring role of Miss Sophie. A little slower than we wanted it maybe, but still great fun to make, especially dressing up and acting on stage in a real auditorium. 

Happy 2015!

End of term fatigue

I was so tired today during my last lesson of the week, I could have cried, and I nearly went to sleep when I shut my eyes to act out "nap". Making us work until 23rd feels a little extreme. The students are knackered too, and in last Thursday's upper intermediate lesson, we were laughing because the first few answers the students gave were all wrong, so everyone came across as needing a holiday. It was quite a nice class, actually; we'd all been for a pizza on Tuesday (a special Sicilian type called a pizzolo) and they were a bit chattier than last time. We stopped off for a traditional selz as well on the way home. So in the class, I gave them a Christmas quiz, which was fun because they did not know about some of our traditions, and then they had fun inventing some questions for me on a Sicilian Christmas, most of which I had to guess.

All week I have been doing Christmas themed classes, which sounds more fun that it probably was because I don't know that I chose the most exciting things to do - but I tried to get everyone to learn some basic facts about what we do in the UK. It certainly makes you see things from a new perspective when you are explaining them to someone else, such as why any of us continue to eat Christmas pudding, cake and mince pies when not many people like them, and I explained that although the Queen makes a speech we do not all listen to it. It's the same for them as the head of the country speaks on 1st January but no one listens. They do not seem to have one meal they have for Christmas Day. No one knew what a parsnip was, even when I showed them a photograph. Children get their presents at midnight on Christmas Eve, I think, and then on 6 January a witch figure brings sweets (or coal).

We have covered many confusing words this week: bough, although, enough (same spellings, different sounds), sleigh and mistletoe.

I managed not to use glitter in this week's kids' class, but instead we seemed to mess around for the entire 90 minutes. The school provided sweets and drinks, which you can imagine fuelled their hyper-activity.  They wanted to play bingo over and over again which was fine. Apparently the adults play cards or bingo over the festive period.

I was too tired this week really to want to deal with all the challenges that the various classes throw at me - but only one more day to go on Monday and then freedom. I can't say I'm looking forward to the travelling but I can't wait to get home for a bit.

I feel less and less sociable and also less and less part of things as a result - but I don't want to spend my entire time out late drinking, it's not for me. Instead I will have to concentrate on speaking Italian and finding new people to hang out with. One nice student who is around my age or a bit younger, she has said she would like to meet up to talk Italian/English in the New Year which will be nice.

I dare say it all sounds exotic and exciting here because I save the best bits for the blog but in fact it's a real mixture of ups and downs and I don't or can't say all the things which are negative. It is quite a tiring experience, it is a real challenge, it seems impossible to rest fully even though I sleep well, the language is still a struggle, and I am struggling with some other things. Catania is tiring, dirty and smelly, and covered everywhere with graffiti and dog mess, although perversely it's grown on me. Etna is still beautiful, when I get to see her. My student said it snowed in his village on Etna the other day. It's gone much colder here. All of 6 whole degrees.  I don't know how I feel about it all right now, I feel it is good to keep experiencing a different place, the students are nice, but I could be happier about a whole load of things. But I feel it exerting a strange pull on me so I guess I will be back in January - I realise it takes time to adjust to a new culture and this was interesting reading. I have realised I like the challenge of teaching and I am glad to have this, even if it is tiring. Some other challenges I could do without, but it is "an experience".  Some of my students have been very nice about my teaching so that is encouraging - I know I am just a beginner and have much to learn. I know I'm not a loud and dynamic teacher like some and have lots of tricks to pick up to improve how I am, but I am glad that they seem to like me as I am.

Oh and the worst thing, the worst thing about being here is that I have already missed Still Game live and now I have to miss Burnistoun live in March, because I am here, and cannot go. Only the two comedies I love the most. Being in the same room as Iain Connell and Robert Florence is only an unthinkable dream and now I will have to be in this place instead. It is seriously galling.

So Buon Natale as they say here, Auguri. Eat lots of panettone and pandoro, they are both very nice.

This morning there was a surprise outside on the main road: some drummers and trumpets, with some men whirling flags. There was a classic car event (it was all a bit random) with some classic cars along the road, men staring at them, and near the cafe was a large white horse and a painted carriage. The horse was dressed in all sorts of finery, and in the carriage were 3 men in traditional costume playing the rather nice whistle/flutey/pipe thing that they have here. I like it. The cart was painted all over with figures and flowers - on closer inspection there were pictures of people slaying each other, so who knows what that was about. I couldn't help thinking the horse looked like it was dancing as it was moving back and forward a little but probably it was just uncomfortable having to stand there, when it would probably rather have been in the parade, or looking at the classic cars.

 

The drums were cool, they went right through you, but strangely enough the road hadn't been closed so cars were driving past and the men sometimes had to get out of the way. It was a nice change and after watching from the balcony I went down to see the horse and look at the cars.

Jo, Beth and I had to abort a trip to Taormina because it turns out the bus timetable has changed for winter - but on the way to the bus stop we saw a fabulous view of Etna between two roads. The galling thing is, the view of Etna from Taormina will be absolutely amazing at the moment because the sky is so clear - the snow on the peak must look incredible. Oh well, another time.

The Christmas present situation is looking good; I have now sorted most things for my flight, and I just have to figure out a few things for the other end now.

More looking around

This week has gone fast and finally there is only one week to go. I think lessons went well this week. I had to give some of them a short test to see how they are all progressing. Everyone seemed to do well, in my opinion, so I hope they will be encouraged by what they have achieved so far.

I managed to get through subject/object questions without further confusing my intermediate group. They are nice, just three girls, one of whom turned out to be an excellent actress last week when I asked them to act out a phrase on a card. She was just brilliant and it was easy to guess what she was doing. This week we were talking about Britishness and they also did some quiz questions on Italy for me.

I actually had fun in the kids' class. I've made several trips to a local stationer's shop which is run by a woman and her two sons. The sons are helpful because they know I can't say much in Italian. It turns out "glitter" is the same word when used in the context of "glitter glue" which came in very handy for some reindeer the kids made. They drew around their hands so the fingers form the four reindeer legs and the thumb makes the head. Everyone found it hard cutting out antlers, so I ended up doing lots of them, but they all enjoyed decorating the reindeer bodies with glitter glue, even though it was in such quantities it did not dry in time for them to take the reindeer home. They're supposed to be tree decorations. We also sang Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer - well, I sang it to them and they made an attempt to sing what they could - I suppose we will do it again next lesson and they might pick up some more. We did actions, which they all followed very attentively. Yes, I've warmed to them a lot recently and had a bit of a soft moment when they were all calling for my attention as usual (Bet-han, Bet-han, because no one can pronounce the "th" properly). How nice it would be, I found myself thinking, to have someone calling for you like that. Except a kid of your own would hardly call you by your first name so that isn't quite right.

We went over to Darcy's flat yesterday and then on to Aci Trezza. I can't do the whole late night and drink thing any more so I was trying my best to drink as slowly as possible and it seemed to work. I am already missing the Australian woman being here, because she was nearer my age.

This morning, inspired by Deanna's exhortation to find things out for myself, I took her guide book

with me and headed into town to try to find the other amphitheatre. I found it in a spot that I have passed frequently and never realised it was there, beneath the level of the road, in a pit. It was huge in its day but is now just some arches and columns. I don't know what it is about Catania but even when you read or hear about things that are supposed to be good, they always seem a bit disappointing. Anyway - one thing that was just the opposite today was Etna. There is a long street where you can see Etna at the top - today she was clearer than I have ever seen her while I've been in Catania. She looked amazing - you can't see the top or the whole outline but just one slope and you could see the snow and it seemed like she was really near. It was so impressive I kept turning round to stare.  Ella and Beth went to town later and Ella knew of a hotel where you can get a panoramic view from the top - so she came back with an amazing photo of Etna over Catania's roofs.

the swordfish is on the table

I decided to check out the fish market, la pescheria, as this is a well known feature of Catania (we are right next to the sea). I did not realise but it's right behind the elephant square. It was quite impressive in a fish-markety sort of way - bearing in mind that I don't eat fish and inwardly was wholly unimpressed by the display of marine carnage. Seeing such beautiful creatures (including poor octopuses) set out on the ice is not my idea of a nice view, but I did want to experience this very Catanese thing. Poor swordfish, who are enormous, were on many stalls, with their heads there to look impressive or something - their swordlike noses are so long.  Luckily there was one nice thing to look at; the Catanese fishmongers weren't too bad looking, but you know I'm not obsessed - it is just nice to observe different looking people and some of them are quite arresting. It made me smile because Sophie and Rickard, who I met in Taormina, always joked I would marry a fisherman (or pescatore).

Next to the fish market are some meat stalls, which I hastened past. I had been warned by the guide book and I did see one of the things it mentioned, which I will spare you, because it was something out of a nightmare. There were also some more fruit and veg stalls - the produce is really fresh and always looks good.  I had the nicest avocado today, it was so creamy and delicious. I don't think it was Sicilian but it was lovely.

The idea was to get some Christmas presents today, but I have resorted to doing it all online and I can't even decide what to get some people. It doesn't get easier to think of things. I honestly can't wait now, it feels so close. I suppose coming back will be hard after going home but at least I have one or two students who I will feel motivated to come back to.  So this final week I am going to either finish giving tests or return the marked tests, and then sod work, we are going to do Christmassy things - learning about what we Brits do on Christmas Day (basically open our presents, eat sprouts, ignore the Queen, watch a film, squeeze in some trifle). It seems like they don't have a special meal they all eat here, they just have pasta or something. I was asking my student friend, who I met for a coffee and our Italian/English practise last weekend. He just gets a few days off, like most people, which is a shame as he seems stressed by work, so I am lucky to get two weeks off.  His class and I are going for a pizza on the last day (we have the last lesson on Monday 22nd) so that will be nice, before I go home on 23rd.