A weird day

Being under the influence of a cold is in some ways like being under the influence of other mind-altering things; my brain has been acting in a very strange way the last couple of days and it was all building up to a head full of cotton wool and some sneezing fits. So I write this in a semi-aware state and hope it makes sense. The last couple of nights' dreams have been a germ-induced muddle of strange images: rhinos, sharks (marine life, always marine life), gypsy children and general angst. And yesterday's trip out was also heavily influenced by the germ, I am sure, as neither of us could think straight and seemed lost in a world of vagueness. It wasn't a usual trip, I can tell you.

It started off with a visit to a spring at Bratton, for moss collection - a different venture to normal but one that was necessary. Bratton church had a (later) carved font which was tastefully decorated for harvest festival. Turns out the area is known for big cat (or dog) sightings, and the way the day developed the only surprise is that we didn't see one.

Onwards to Devizes, for a long awaited trip to the Italian cafe, Dolcipani. If you haven't been, then you must go, and you will never look back. I just wanted a decent espresso.  It was, as always, very busy. We both had a "Sicilian sunshine" ciabatta (enough for 2 meals) and I noticed, for the first time, that there were lots of references to Sicily. So when we finally dragged ourselves away, I asked (not in Italian, to my shame) the guy where he was from. "Sicily," he said. "Where in Sicily?" "Catania!" came the reply. No way! I could not believe it, having spent the last year in the very same place. The guy seemed less surprised by this coincidence and of course asked me how I'd liked it, etc. I said I missed granita and arancini, which he, of course, understood.  It was too busy to stand chatting to him, so I couldn't even get on to Etna.

A bit surprised by this coincidence the pair of us went on to our next stop, one of the churches in the centre of Devizes. Apparently we've been before, but I don't remember what was inside. Sadly it was shut this time, but I don't mind as it's a good excuse to go back to Dolcipani. We went on to a village just outside Devizes, except I wasn't looking at the map (there are too many in the car, I can never find the right one) and my sister got confused and took a road in the wrong direction. So after going in a big circle we ended up in Etchilhampton, a very quiet little spot. Outside the car, hundreds of bees were busy going in and out of holes in the bank. Further investigation is required as to what sort they were. Etchilhampton was a small church with a nice, simple font, with a band of carved semi circles. It was noticeably wonky and the design sloped down a little to one side.

We drove next to a place that was circled on the map, called Patney - not a place of note in Pevsner, but one that supposedly had had something of interest about it online. My sister could not remember what so we thought we would just turn up and see. As she went through the gate, I noticed it said "Private" but ignored this as we both headed up the path. Both of us were thinking the same thing, that they'd made a real effort with the flower beds as there were lots of flowers. A glance into the window of the building and R saw a standard lamp, I saw a sofa.  It was a house.  A church converted into a house. We beat a hasty retreat. I bet others have made the same mistake.

The day did not seem to be going to plan and we both felt a bit vague. So we decided to head back. The route home went near Old Dilton, where there is a disused church which is kept up by the The Churches Conservation Trust.  It was quite interesting as it was full of large box pews, where a whole family could sit together. It had escaped all the heavy Victorian features so it was quite plain. We had to get the key from a nearby house and it always makes it more fun when you have to unlock these heavy oak doors yourself.

We headed back via Upton Scudamore, where we have been before but then it was locked. This time we were in luck as a woman had gone in just as we were arriving. Except when we got out, two rather large dogs that were with her were guarding the gateway and barking at us. I was still feeling a bit weird and I did not like the look of this dog; its owner was too far away to call and the way the day had been going instinct was telling me it would probably take my leg off if I opened the gate. Probably it would have been fine, but I didn't like to risk it and so we gave it a miss. Sometimes you just have to trust your instincts, even if it means missing out on interesting Norman things.

Potterne, Chirton and Upavon

Not only is the hunt for more Norman sculpture becoming increasingly interesting in terms of what we find, it is also a great way of seeing different parts of the countryside. I feel I have covered a lot of Wiltshire now and it is such a pretty county. We have seen so many quaint English villages, you begin to think that everyone lives in beautiful old cottages.

On a trip out to the Devizes area we first stopped off in Potterne, to have a look at the font there which is large and plain but unusual in that it has writing around its rim.

Then it was on to Chirton, which has a double whammy with a door adorned with beakheads (aka beaky creatures) and also a fantastic font, containing twelve carved figures - you've guessed it, the twelve apostles. The beakheads were, I hesitate to say "the usual" because clearly I'm becoming too used to seeing such fun and fine carvings - they were recognisably the same sort of style as many others we had seen, fairly chunky and with the same wide variation between faces - some with horns, some with beaks, some with teeth, some with long ears - even a hand. One looked like a dog with floppy ears, or a pig which was rather unusual.

The font was interesting because each figure was different and I expect if you had known what to look for, you could perhaps identify some of them from what they were holding. The only one we knew was Peter, who is always shown carrying keys. My sister had read that he has 2 keys in many pictures. I guessed this would be one to the front gate of Heaven and one to the back? We also both liked the elaborate foliage/organic design around the top and bottom of the font bowl. The figure I drew had rather appealing rolled hair and nicely observed folds in his gown.

Travelling onwards on the edge of Salisbury Plain, via the super quaint Urchfont, we arrived at Upavon. Here there was a most unusual font with eight sides, two of which had creatures, one had figures and five had foliage designs. The draw of this one had been the promise of two leopard like creatures - and we were not disappointed. Two panels show what we decided were more likely to be lions, and they were carved in lovely detail with a long curling tail, furry legs, and possibly a mane. They also had long claws. I was intrigued to later learn that Upavon was the setting for a big cat sighting; could the two somehow be related?

By the way, do take care if you go to Upavon as there were a gaggle of most entertaining but bolshy geese on the bridge. They even had their own sign to warn drivers - we saw them in action, coming on to the path and chasing off anyone who wished to go past, especially dogs and they were apt to cross the main road at any time, holding up traffic.