A weird day

Being under the influence of a cold is in some ways like being under the influence of other mind-altering things; my brain has been acting in a very strange way the last couple of days and it was all building up to a head full of cotton wool and some sneezing fits. So I write this in a semi-aware state and hope it makes sense. The last couple of nights' dreams have been a germ-induced muddle of strange images: rhinos, sharks (marine life, always marine life), gypsy children and general angst. And yesterday's trip out was also heavily influenced by the germ, I am sure, as neither of us could think straight and seemed lost in a world of vagueness. It wasn't a usual trip, I can tell you.

It started off with a visit to a spring at Bratton, for moss collection - a different venture to normal but one that was necessary. Bratton church had a (later) carved font which was tastefully decorated for harvest festival. Turns out the area is known for big cat (or dog) sightings, and the way the day developed the only surprise is that we didn't see one.

Onwards to Devizes, for a long awaited trip to the Italian cafe, Dolcipani. If you haven't been, then you must go, and you will never look back. I just wanted a decent espresso.  It was, as always, very busy. We both had a "Sicilian sunshine" ciabatta (enough for 2 meals) and I noticed, for the first time, that there were lots of references to Sicily. So when we finally dragged ourselves away, I asked (not in Italian, to my shame) the guy where he was from. "Sicily," he said. "Where in Sicily?" "Catania!" came the reply. No way! I could not believe it, having spent the last year in the very same place. The guy seemed less surprised by this coincidence and of course asked me how I'd liked it, etc. I said I missed granita and arancini, which he, of course, understood.  It was too busy to stand chatting to him, so I couldn't even get on to Etna.

A bit surprised by this coincidence the pair of us went on to our next stop, one of the churches in the centre of Devizes. Apparently we've been before, but I don't remember what was inside. Sadly it was shut this time, but I don't mind as it's a good excuse to go back to Dolcipani. We went on to a village just outside Devizes, except I wasn't looking at the map (there are too many in the car, I can never find the right one) and my sister got confused and took a road in the wrong direction. So after going in a big circle we ended up in Etchilhampton, a very quiet little spot. Outside the car, hundreds of bees were busy going in and out of holes in the bank. Further investigation is required as to what sort they were. Etchilhampton was a small church with a nice, simple font, with a band of carved semi circles. It was noticeably wonky and the design sloped down a little to one side.

We drove next to a place that was circled on the map, called Patney - not a place of note in Pevsner, but one that supposedly had had something of interest about it online. My sister could not remember what so we thought we would just turn up and see. As she went through the gate, I noticed it said "Private" but ignored this as we both headed up the path. Both of us were thinking the same thing, that they'd made a real effort with the flower beds as there were lots of flowers. A glance into the window of the building and R saw a standard lamp, I saw a sofa.  It was a house.  A church converted into a house. We beat a hasty retreat. I bet others have made the same mistake.

The day did not seem to be going to plan and we both felt a bit vague. So we decided to head back. The route home went near Old Dilton, where there is a disused church which is kept up by the The Churches Conservation Trust.  It was quite interesting as it was full of large box pews, where a whole family could sit together. It had escaped all the heavy Victorian features so it was quite plain. We had to get the key from a nearby house and it always makes it more fun when you have to unlock these heavy oak doors yourself.

We headed back via Upton Scudamore, where we have been before but then it was locked. This time we were in luck as a woman had gone in just as we were arriving. Except when we got out, two rather large dogs that were with her were guarding the gateway and barking at us. I was still feeling a bit weird and I did not like the look of this dog; its owner was too far away to call and the way the day had been going instinct was telling me it would probably take my leg off if I opened the gate. Probably it would have been fine, but I didn't like to risk it and so we gave it a miss. Sometimes you just have to trust your instincts, even if it means missing out on interesting Norman things.

Back again

It hasn't seemed worth blogging until now about being back in the UK, but here I am again. It's been 6 weeks and the things I miss most are the coffee, sunshine and Jo. And nice looking ragazzi. And some of my students. And the food. But at the moment, mostly the sunshine and coffee, it being cold and rainy here. A day of ceaseless rain on Friday is enough to make anyone head to the easyjet website.

However, I don't think that is the answer right now. A recent birthday was my annual time for reflection (maybe I should have these more often) and perhaps I should think about what I want from life a bit more and actually take action to get nearer that. Running back to Italy is tempting (especially when Jo has been talking about returning to exotic locations), but there are things here that I could be focussing on. We will see.

I've been in touch with some of my students and occasionally heard from the nice floppy haired Back to the Future fan, so I have some sort of connection with the land of lovely Etna. (I failed to say I miss her but I do, very much). It is currently pushing 37 degrees there, which is too hot even for them, what a shame, but I dare say they prefer it to what we have at the moment.

Here I am experiencing a new part time summer job at a small international school which prepares students for UK boarding schools. They are mostly from China, Russia and Japan, with a sole Italian boy who I make read in class so I can hear the lovely accent. It is different to what I was doing in Italy and I hope to learn a few things about teaching while I am there. The teachers are all nice and supportive and the kids are pleasant enough, very polite and really just typical teenagers, who'd rather be sleeping sometimes than working. But what's new. I have enjoyed working with one smaller child and encouraging him with his spelling and reading. Another bonus is having tea breaks and a hot lunch all together. But boarding school life with its regulations and so on is quite a different thing but I think I've got used to it now and the children seem happy there. It's nice that everyone knows each other by name and they all look after each other.

Aside from that, it will be back to the job hunting again and also thinking of long term plans; where do I want to be, who do I want to be there with, etc etc. Meanwhile work and feeling generally knackered seem to get in the way of more exciting things like Fonting and writing and finding a way out of having to work.  But some fonts have been visited (yey!) which was a great relief and helped establish equilibrium again. More on those to come. And if it is all too much here, then I know Etna is only a 3 hour plane trip away, even for a quick burst of sunshine and a much-needed caffè.

Taormina, Vindicari and Ortigia

Last weekend we thought we deserved a treat after making it through the first full weekend of teaching so we decided to go to Taormina. Naturally I was keen to show Jo the delights of where I had spent June and so we headed off towards the bus station. Everything takes twice as long as you would imagine because we don't know where anything is, so after walking round in a big square we finally found where the buses go from Catania to Taormina. The service is Etnabus and we were pleased to see they went every hour. There were also loads of bays with buses going to other places like Siracusa (Syracuse) so we are pleased that we will be able to go to lots of places. Jo realised people were holding tickets already so we then we had to find the ticket office which was on the other side of the road.

When we began to get close I was excited to see the town perched on the hill, with Castlemola even higher above. It felt so good to be heading back. It took us about 75 mins to get there, with a stop off at Giardini Naxos. I was very pleased that Jo loved Taormina as much as I did. I showed her where I stayed, and we walked up from Porta Messina along the Corso Umberto. It was not quite as busy as it had been in June, but as soon as we got to the first church, we saw a wedding outside. In total that day we saw 2 which does not come close to mine and Letitia's record of 5 on midsummer's day. It was lovely just to be back walking along and admiring the buildings and the fancy shops and the people. Jo was like I was during the first weeks, taking photos of everything.

Unfortunately Etna was in cloud, so the view from the piazza was not as impressive, as usually the view of Etna is stunning. But looking out across the blue sea from above is still beautiful and the square was busy and full of tourists.

We stopped for something to eat at Gambero Rosso - where else, the favourite haunt of my lovely Swedish Sophie and Rickard. No sign of Felipe or Mattia but the woman there promised to pass on our greetings. After a massive pizza, she brought us a mandorla wine - the first one Jo had tried. While Jo was away from the table the rather nice looking waiter told me how beautiful she was. It is like being with my Swedish friends again, they do so love a blonde here.

We decided to save the Teatro Greco until another day when the skies are clear, so that we can have a great view of Etna, for that is the best thing about going there. I took Jo to where Babilonia school is, thinking it would be shut as it was the weekend. But to my surprise the cafe was open, so in I walked, just like all those happy, beautiful mornings in June. To my delight, the trees were all in fruit  - we had wondered what they would grow. There were huge pomegranates, grapefruits, limes and something orange like a tomato, but not a tomato. I was really happy to see the cafe staff, Cristina and Saverio again - they are so welcoming and it was just like old times. Jo and I had a drink under the trees, the lizards darting from table to table, and it felt like the first time I had relaxed properly since I got here.

We ended our day with an hour or so at Isola Bella, not too crowded, and not too cold in the sea. Jo got some goggles for 3 euros which broke before she even put them on.

The next day, our manager and her Sicilian partner, took us to a nature reserve in the south east of the island, called Vindicari. It is on the coast and it has very tall reeds (or were they grasses?) that made a lovely sound blowing in the breeze. It also had some small lakes where many birds come, such as ibises. I saw lots of birds, one bright blue, but the reason we went was to see some flamingoes that had come up from Africa. There must have been about 30 of them and they were quite far away in the centre of a lake, so although you could see a faint pink tinge, you could not really see more than that. You could sometimes hear them faintly. Gabrielle managed to get some good pictures of them.  Apparently more will come over the next few months so we might return.

As well as water, there were interesting low bushes and plants, some fleshy, some with berries, and some with little flowers. There were lots of the prickly pear cacti, which have come into fruit - the ends go red. I wanted to try one but haven't yet; Gab has said they are hard to get into. I picked one up at the supermarket yesterday and got attacked by it. There are tiny little hairs or prickles. Hence the name I suppose! haha.

On the coast was a disused tuna factory, like the Mannera in Montalbano (which is also along the coast). Apparently they used to catch (the poor) tuna and cook them on site in the factory.

Just next to the reserve was a small bay, where the sea was so clear and shallow for ages. We all went in for a swim and we saw some gorgeous light blue fish swimming about. Jo and I cannot get over being able to go in the sea in October. It is mad. Apparently summer is starting and finishing later here, but I think even this is unusual. It is still muggy in the day, but at the coast there is always a nice breeze.

On our way home Gab wanted to stop for an ice cream so he went out of the way to show us Ortigia which is an island that is attached to Siracusa.  There were some big Greek ruins that had been reconstructed into massive columns. It was Sunday night so the Italians were doing their "passeggiata" where they all dress up in their best clothes and saunter along the main streets to look at each other. I love it, it was so much fun in Taormina, but it was also quite enjoyable in Ortigia. Everyone looked rather nice. On our way back, we stopped to look at some street guy with puppets, but I was more taken by a rather stunning looking man watching opposite. I notice he did not move away when the show ended so I wondered if he was a stooge, to draw the tourists in to watch! Maybe not... Such a shame that they don't seem to go for the pale look (so far).