End of the year

So I reached the end of term and it all went okay. Went for a particularly nice pizza with my pre-intermediates on the last day. At my request they tried talking to me more in Italian - now I know how they feel as I needed them to speak slower and repeat themselves. But it was fun.

Ella and I discovered we were on the same flight home which was nice as it made the airport experience less boring. I said goodbye to Darcy three times in the end - once in school, then she was at the pizza place, and then she kindly took us to the airport. There was an amazing view of Etna that I've missed before - it must have been in cloud. Ella and I made each other laugh in the airport. We were getting a coffee and she said I would have to attract the guy's attention for mine - that he was probably called Giuseppe, or Francesco, or Alessio, or Alessandro or one of the several names that they all seem to be called. Sure enough when he turned round his name badge said Giuseppe, and so we started laughing. Then the second guy came to the counter and was called Alessandro, and that set us off. By the time we caught sight of the third guy and he was called Francesco, we were doubled over laughing and had to move away in case they thought we were crazy.

It is very relaxing to be back in England where the weather is suitably cold for this time of year and where you can have a conversation with a stranger, for instance about train tickets, and understand everything they are saying. Being able to make small talk was also a refreshing change.

I did find myself missing the Italian sound though so I sneaked in a bit of Montalbano after the usual Christmas films, to see if I could understand it better - of course I still need subtitles but I found it was easier to hear more words.

Today I was transferring things to watch over to my hard drive so I have something to look at when I go back. I happened to see on there the recording of "Dinner for One" - funnily enough New Year's Eve is the traditional day in the year when Germans and other European countries watch this old comedy sketch with England's own Freddie Frinton.  You can read about it here.  The original sketch is on YouTube.

I must have heard the script a hundred times when we made our own version a few years ago. Here I am in the starring role of Miss Sophie. A little slower than we wanted it maybe, but still great fun to make, especially dressing up and acting on stage in a real auditorium. 

Happy 2015!

End of term fatigue

I was so tired today during my last lesson of the week, I could have cried, and I nearly went to sleep when I shut my eyes to act out "nap". Making us work until 23rd feels a little extreme. The students are knackered too, and in last Thursday's upper intermediate lesson, we were laughing because the first few answers the students gave were all wrong, so everyone came across as needing a holiday. It was quite a nice class, actually; we'd all been for a pizza on Tuesday (a special Sicilian type called a pizzolo) and they were a bit chattier than last time. We stopped off for a traditional selz as well on the way home. So in the class, I gave them a Christmas quiz, which was fun because they did not know about some of our traditions, and then they had fun inventing some questions for me on a Sicilian Christmas, most of which I had to guess.

All week I have been doing Christmas themed classes, which sounds more fun that it probably was because I don't know that I chose the most exciting things to do - but I tried to get everyone to learn some basic facts about what we do in the UK. It certainly makes you see things from a new perspective when you are explaining them to someone else, such as why any of us continue to eat Christmas pudding, cake and mince pies when not many people like them, and I explained that although the Queen makes a speech we do not all listen to it. It's the same for them as the head of the country speaks on 1st January but no one listens. They do not seem to have one meal they have for Christmas Day. No one knew what a parsnip was, even when I showed them a photograph. Children get their presents at midnight on Christmas Eve, I think, and then on 6 January a witch figure brings sweets (or coal).

We have covered many confusing words this week: bough, although, enough (same spellings, different sounds), sleigh and mistletoe.

I managed not to use glitter in this week's kids' class, but instead we seemed to mess around for the entire 90 minutes. The school provided sweets and drinks, which you can imagine fuelled their hyper-activity.  They wanted to play bingo over and over again which was fine. Apparently the adults play cards or bingo over the festive period.

I was too tired this week really to want to deal with all the challenges that the various classes throw at me - but only one more day to go on Monday and then freedom. I can't say I'm looking forward to the travelling but I can't wait to get home for a bit.

I feel less and less sociable and also less and less part of things as a result - but I don't want to spend my entire time out late drinking, it's not for me. Instead I will have to concentrate on speaking Italian and finding new people to hang out with. One nice student who is around my age or a bit younger, she has said she would like to meet up to talk Italian/English in the New Year which will be nice.

I dare say it all sounds exotic and exciting here because I save the best bits for the blog but in fact it's a real mixture of ups and downs and I don't or can't say all the things which are negative. It is quite a tiring experience, it is a real challenge, it seems impossible to rest fully even though I sleep well, the language is still a struggle, and I am struggling with some other things. Catania is tiring, dirty and smelly, and covered everywhere with graffiti and dog mess, although perversely it's grown on me. Etna is still beautiful, when I get to see her. My student said it snowed in his village on Etna the other day. It's gone much colder here. All of 6 whole degrees.  I don't know how I feel about it all right now, I feel it is good to keep experiencing a different place, the students are nice, but I could be happier about a whole load of things. But I feel it exerting a strange pull on me so I guess I will be back in January - I realise it takes time to adjust to a new culture and this was interesting reading. I have realised I like the challenge of teaching and I am glad to have this, even if it is tiring. Some other challenges I could do without, but it is "an experience".  Some of my students have been very nice about my teaching so that is encouraging - I know I am just a beginner and have much to learn. I know I'm not a loud and dynamic teacher like some and have lots of tricks to pick up to improve how I am, but I am glad that they seem to like me as I am.

Oh and the worst thing, the worst thing about being here is that I have already missed Still Game live and now I have to miss Burnistoun live in March, because I am here, and cannot go. Only the two comedies I love the most. Being in the same room as Iain Connell and Robert Florence is only an unthinkable dream and now I will have to be in this place instead. It is seriously galling.

So Buon Natale as they say here, Auguri. Eat lots of panettone and pandoro, they are both very nice.

This morning there was a surprise outside on the main road: some drummers and trumpets, with some men whirling flags. There was a classic car event (it was all a bit random) with some classic cars along the road, men staring at them, and near the cafe was a large white horse and a painted carriage. The horse was dressed in all sorts of finery, and in the carriage were 3 men in traditional costume playing the rather nice whistle/flutey/pipe thing that they have here. I like it. The cart was painted all over with figures and flowers - on closer inspection there were pictures of people slaying each other, so who knows what that was about. I couldn't help thinking the horse looked like it was dancing as it was moving back and forward a little but probably it was just uncomfortable having to stand there, when it would probably rather have been in the parade, or looking at the classic cars.

 

The drums were cool, they went right through you, but strangely enough the road hadn't been closed so cars were driving past and the men sometimes had to get out of the way. It was a nice change and after watching from the balcony I went down to see the horse and look at the cars.

Jo, Beth and I had to abort a trip to Taormina because it turns out the bus timetable has changed for winter - but on the way to the bus stop we saw a fabulous view of Etna between two roads. The galling thing is, the view of Etna from Taormina will be absolutely amazing at the moment because the sky is so clear - the snow on the peak must look incredible. Oh well, another time.

The Christmas present situation is looking good; I have now sorted most things for my flight, and I just have to figure out a few things for the other end now.

More looking around

This week has gone fast and finally there is only one week to go. I think lessons went well this week. I had to give some of them a short test to see how they are all progressing. Everyone seemed to do well, in my opinion, so I hope they will be encouraged by what they have achieved so far.

I managed to get through subject/object questions without further confusing my intermediate group. They are nice, just three girls, one of whom turned out to be an excellent actress last week when I asked them to act out a phrase on a card. She was just brilliant and it was easy to guess what she was doing. This week we were talking about Britishness and they also did some quiz questions on Italy for me.

I actually had fun in the kids' class. I've made several trips to a local stationer's shop which is run by a woman and her two sons. The sons are helpful because they know I can't say much in Italian. It turns out "glitter" is the same word when used in the context of "glitter glue" which came in very handy for some reindeer the kids made. They drew around their hands so the fingers form the four reindeer legs and the thumb makes the head. Everyone found it hard cutting out antlers, so I ended up doing lots of them, but they all enjoyed decorating the reindeer bodies with glitter glue, even though it was in such quantities it did not dry in time for them to take the reindeer home. They're supposed to be tree decorations. We also sang Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer - well, I sang it to them and they made an attempt to sing what they could - I suppose we will do it again next lesson and they might pick up some more. We did actions, which they all followed very attentively. Yes, I've warmed to them a lot recently and had a bit of a soft moment when they were all calling for my attention as usual (Bet-han, Bet-han, because no one can pronounce the "th" properly). How nice it would be, I found myself thinking, to have someone calling for you like that. Except a kid of your own would hardly call you by your first name so that isn't quite right.

We went over to Darcy's flat yesterday and then on to Aci Trezza. I can't do the whole late night and drink thing any more so I was trying my best to drink as slowly as possible and it seemed to work. I am already missing the Australian woman being here, because she was nearer my age.

This morning, inspired by Deanna's exhortation to find things out for myself, I took her guide book

with me and headed into town to try to find the other amphitheatre. I found it in a spot that I have passed frequently and never realised it was there, beneath the level of the road, in a pit. It was huge in its day but is now just some arches and columns. I don't know what it is about Catania but even when you read or hear about things that are supposed to be good, they always seem a bit disappointing. Anyway - one thing that was just the opposite today was Etna. There is a long street where you can see Etna at the top - today she was clearer than I have ever seen her while I've been in Catania. She looked amazing - you can't see the top or the whole outline but just one slope and you could see the snow and it seemed like she was really near. It was so impressive I kept turning round to stare.  Ella and Beth went to town later and Ella knew of a hotel where you can get a panoramic view from the top - so she came back with an amazing photo of Etna over Catania's roofs.

the swordfish is on the table

I decided to check out the fish market, la pescheria, as this is a well known feature of Catania (we are right next to the sea). I did not realise but it's right behind the elephant square. It was quite impressive in a fish-markety sort of way - bearing in mind that I don't eat fish and inwardly was wholly unimpressed by the display of marine carnage. Seeing such beautiful creatures (including poor octopuses) set out on the ice is not my idea of a nice view, but I did want to experience this very Catanese thing. Poor swordfish, who are enormous, were on many stalls, with their heads there to look impressive or something - their swordlike noses are so long.  Luckily there was one nice thing to look at; the Catanese fishmongers weren't too bad looking, but you know I'm not obsessed - it is just nice to observe different looking people and some of them are quite arresting. It made me smile because Sophie and Rickard, who I met in Taormina, always joked I would marry a fisherman (or pescatore).

Next to the fish market are some meat stalls, which I hastened past. I had been warned by the guide book and I did see one of the things it mentioned, which I will spare you, because it was something out of a nightmare. There were also some more fruit and veg stalls - the produce is really fresh and always looks good.  I had the nicest avocado today, it was so creamy and delicious. I don't think it was Sicilian but it was lovely.

The idea was to get some Christmas presents today, but I have resorted to doing it all online and I can't even decide what to get some people. It doesn't get easier to think of things. I honestly can't wait now, it feels so close. I suppose coming back will be hard after going home but at least I have one or two students who I will feel motivated to come back to.  So this final week I am going to either finish giving tests or return the marked tests, and then sod work, we are going to do Christmassy things - learning about what we Brits do on Christmas Day (basically open our presents, eat sprouts, ignore the Queen, watch a film, squeeze in some trifle). It seems like they don't have a special meal they all eat here, they just have pasta or something. I was asking my student friend, who I met for a coffee and our Italian/English practise last weekend. He just gets a few days off, like most people, which is a shame as he seems stressed by work, so I am lucky to get two weeks off.  His class and I are going for a pizza on the last day (we have the last lesson on Monday 22nd) so that will be nice, before I go home on 23rd.

Action packed 24 hours

Since the last blog post yesterday I've had a pretty action packed 24 hours. Christmas has definitely come to Catania hoorah! I was in town earlier today and the shops were open, even though it is Sunday, and people were shopping - plus there were proper Christmassy lights everywhere in the streets, etc. Fab. The Christmas tunes are now on whenever possible. The Christmas present dilemma remains the same here, as it is in the UK, ie I see something I think someone might like, I don't buy it straight away, and then I forget where it is.

ravioloni

chocolate mmm

Anyway - since yesterday: last night some of us went to a nice restaurant in the centre for Deanna's last night. Once we had all figured out what was on the menu (some of us are still learning Italian), I went for a ravioli which was based on the traditional Sicilian "pasta alla norma" which means it has aubergines, tomato and ricotta salata cheese. The aubergines tasted amazing. The other dishes were kind of the things you get on Masterchef with pieces of meat or fish with strange accompaniments - Darcy had pork with chocolate sauce and pears and everyone pulled a very impressed face when they tasted it. A student had recommended the place and also the four chocolate dessert - we shared it - there were four little puddings each with an increasing amount of cocoa in, so the first was white chocolate and cinnamon (mmm), the second had cardamom (mmm), the third was like a brownie (mmmm) and the last one was a rich what-d-y-ma-call it that they make on the tv where the middle is all gooey. I literally can't remember. But they were goooood!

Then we went to a little bar where there is a darts board and although none of us can play, we all had really good fun having a go. I think that although British/American/English teachers' nights out are well oiled by local wine or overly strong cocktails, and shots that Nesh brings out of nowhere, it was the darts that were fun and we agreed that Sicilians seem to take things a bit seriously - naturally the noise we were making attracted a few onlookers (one of whom kindly said he thought I was 25, hahah, he did have glasses). But they all looked quite serious. Anyway - we had fun. Ella, who genuinely didn't seem to know anything about darts, was a natural - isn't it always the way! But I actually fluked a treble 20 too, when no one was really looking.

180!

Apparently not many clubs were open and Darcy's husband wanted to go to a club where some friends were, which was a hip-hop/rap place. None of us are into that but it was quite an experience. I am seeing new bits of Catania and it feels good. There were a load of kids, mostly boys, in the club, well they all looked young to me! - but not your usual chicly dressed lot - these lot were in normal clothes and I actually felt my leggings/skirt/hooded top fitted in ok. There were two rappers rapping away in - presumably Sicilian? - or Italian - but actually although I couldn't really get any of it, it sounded good - Italian is a great language for that - and the kid clearly had something to say - the audience knew it all and loved it, there was passion and authenticity. Unexpectedly, I enjoyed it. Jo somehow got herself a job behind the bar, or what I mean was, she was there giving out drinks, I have no idea why. The boys of Catania really are a nice looking lot. It's not even the pretty boy, well groomed model look that you might associate with Italian men. It is a certain look, they definitely have - is it a Sicilian or a Catanese look? - and although maybe you would not say, "wow he's stunning" about many, they have a good look going on. I don't see the same in the UK. Not that it matters :)

flea market

This morning I decided to go into town to find the flea market that Deanna had mentioned. Luckily I chanced upon it as I didn't understand the map, and it was quite big. I was hoping I would find some Faberge, you can never give up hope, but it was generally full of tat, like the car boots and markets in England. But with a few more pictures of Jesus and religious things thrown in. Everything was a bit pricey too. So I didn't find anything.

duomo and elephant

After that I thought it was high time I went into the cathedral, to say hello to my Aussie pal's namesake, St Agata. You can't see her (there's a highly jewelled version) until her feast day in February, which apparently is a real spectacle in the city. Can't wait, we get the day off. I happened to go into the cathedral, which by the way is disappointingly plain inside, when the mass was on. Oh hooray. But I needed a sit down so I took a side pew, and took an anthropological look at what was going on. The priest was droning on about Jesus, and Salvatore - ah, no he wasn't talking about my student friend but his name means Saviour :)  All the Sicilians were doing the whole crossing yourself bit, even the pretty boys, and I looked on with a feeling of relief that I am totally free from all that stuff. It was a nice five minutes to think about things though (NB NOT RELIGIOUS THINGS). Tomorrow is the feast of the immaculate conception. Which is fine if it means the day off.

I enjoyed an espresso shot (they are so good) and a lovely croissant in the cafe in the square with the elephant. It's a statue in the main piazza that is the symbol of Catania. It was a lovely day and quite hot in the sun - the sky was very blue! I had to take my hooded top off so I was in a t-shirt. Sorry I know it's cold in the UK. But the Sicilians think it's cold, they're all in their coats and stare at me for taking off my jacket.

Roman theatre

Next I decided to continue the touristy theme and headed up to the Roman theatre that is near the elephant square. Usually it's 6€ but today by a stroke of good luck (maybe a gift from the elephant), it was free. It is quite large and very well preserved - it seated 1500 people for entertainment. It wasn't uncovered until the middle of the 20th century - they didn't realise it was there for ages as people had built houses on it - they only realised when they saw that the buildings were in a semi circle shape and asked why. 

blue sky and elephant

Some guy started talking to me on the way back up the main shopping street. I thought he was just being polite, but he tried to give me his phone number. That's not fine. He was not young. It's never the ones you like is it? :)

Catania looks nice in the sun. Said goodbye to Deanna yesterday and she urged me to do things for myself in Catania - so I have started today, as I mean to go on.  You may have picked up on it already, I think there was a bit of Pride & Prejudice going on with me, thinking I had not much in common with people - everyone is really sweet, and I am enjoying getting to know people better. 

This week

We have a new flatmate, Beth, who is also a teacher - she's only 22 but she has done many things such as teaching in India. She is really lovely and has fitted in so quickly. It feels like she has been here for ages. Her first night was a bit crazy - she turned up at night, so we were there to welcome her with pizza and the other teachers. Later that night there was a loud crash and Darcy and I discovered that a large area of plaster had crashed to the floor from the ceiling in one of the bedrooms. It was all very weird. No fewer than 6 Sicilan men came to look at it the next day (god knows what they all do) but they fixed it the next day, so fingers crossed, everything is now fine.

Next day Beth and I went for a walk along the seafront (lungomare) which was nice. The rocks are all black and volcanic. It is still warm-ish. Cooler at night. But you can still hang around without a coat. And usually without a jacket. (Sorry!)

It is finally Christmassy here - lights have gone up across the roads, from flat to flat - mostly plain white but it is still better. Some stars have gone up outside the school. There are many poinsettias everywhere. I think people were even Christmas shopping today.

I have ordered things online to arrive at home but I would still like to bring back small things from here if I can find anything I won't squash or eat before I get back. It is still two weeks before we finish and they seem like an eternity. Although I have got lots to do before then so they will go quickly. Or should that be they are going to go quickly. I don't know any more. The more you do grammar in class, the more you begin to question how you speak, yourself. I got in a right pickle with subjects and objects this week and had to make out that I did not want to confuse the students and would come back to it next week afresh. What I meant and what I am sure they knew I meant is that I did not really know what I was talking about :) Now I am beginning to understand when people say things get better after a year of teaching: it will take that long to go through all the various aspects of grammar and figure out what they all mean.

On Wednesday we had our first Italian lesson at the school - it turns out the teacher is Marina, who I had for 2 weeks at Taormina! So that was lovely, to see her again, and everyone enjoyed the class. It was much nicer to be a student again than a teacher. We had the lesson in my room so it was weird to be the other side of the desk - and I realised what a bare and horrible room I have! I really need to take back some lovely pictures.

I had my class observation: naturally it went so badly I laughed about it in the end. Mind you, my Director of Studies did not stay for more than 45 mins so I hope that means it wasn't as much of a disaster as I thought it was. The teenagers were all shy and actually hiding behind their hands, even the one I was counting on to speak up as he usually does. At least he was there, unlike his friend whom I was also hoping would be his usual cheery self. The CD started skipping. I was nervous and wooden. But I'm sure it will be ok.

The kids' class was actually quite fun: never mind learning, we did some Christmas words and then launched into making Christmas cards. Tree or snowman. I did one of each so they could choose. It was panning out fine until they asked for the glitter. I had envisaged gently sprinkling glitter on to each card for them. But in the end I let them do it themselves. You can probably imagine what the place looked like afterwards. Marika sprinkled glitter into Matteo's hair. Giorgia had glitter all over her face. Her glue ended up on the floor and she looked like she was going to cry. The parents were coming at the end of the lesson for 10 minutes to find out how the class is going. Thank god my room is too small for them so they went next door and did not see the glitter explosion that had happened over their children. Glitter was all over the table, all over everyone's hands, faces, etc. You had to laugh. Once they had gone, I tried to sweep it up off the floor, but it is still everywhere. It was all over the chairs. I went into the corridor. The floor was glittering back at me. I followed a trail of glitter down the stairs out of the school and there was even glitter on the pavement outside. Hahahah!

The teachers, plus a husband!

Last night we went out for an aperitivo (food and cocktails at lovely prices) in a nice bar with, I noticed, a rather nice looking owner. It was for our Australian workmate who is going home for good tomorrow. It is a shame, because she is nearer my age and I find her easy to get on with - she has been very helpful by suggesting many things to make me feel more at home. But it is very exciting for her, as she is going back after being here for 2 years, with I think not many trips home in that time. So we are out again tonight. I tried her favourite drink, a negrino - a campari based drink. Strong but very nice :) One is enough.

Then today I met up with my student with whom I tried to practise Italian last time. He'd missed the class so it was a good reason to sit in my local cafe and tell him all about the way we use "going to." It was very nice because he makes me laugh (not many things in Catania make me laugh) and he makes me speak Italian. He thinks I should set up my own school - all in good time. Maybe in Taormina, I said, but he said that was too far for him to travel to, which was sweet. He uses his English at work and was saying how difficult it was when English people send abrupt emails about sending the remittance and the payment window.  I told him I don't even know what all those words mean. I will look for a book with useful business jargon in. 

As it is nearly Christmas we have had to find our own Christmas music as there is hardly any around, so that is getting me in the festive spirit. I hope it does not snow before Xmas as I want nothing to stop my journey home!

I will take some pictures for the next post - I will take some before I come back to show everyone what things look like. (Now I have confused myself about when you use "will".) Anyway - it struck me that the whole place is covered in graffiti and dog mess - nice eh. There is a strange contradiction there that some Sicilians look at you if you are not dressed as stylishly as them, but they don't seem to respect the place they live in. My student was talking about how hard it is because of the high unemployment, so maybe this is reflected in how people treat the city - it's complicated here, that I can see.

This weekend we have a bank holiday weekend whoo hoo!

Maybe because it's nearly Christmas, and I'll nearly be home, but I think things are feeling better here :) And (although I don't like Elton John) here is my absolute favourite Christmas song.