End of the year

So I reached the end of term and it all went okay. Went for a particularly nice pizza with my pre-intermediates on the last day. At my request they tried talking to me more in Italian - now I know how they feel as I needed them to speak slower and repeat themselves. But it was fun.

Ella and I discovered we were on the same flight home which was nice as it made the airport experience less boring. I said goodbye to Darcy three times in the end - once in school, then she was at the pizza place, and then she kindly took us to the airport. There was an amazing view of Etna that I've missed before - it must have been in cloud. Ella and I made each other laugh in the airport. We were getting a coffee and she said I would have to attract the guy's attention for mine - that he was probably called Giuseppe, or Francesco, or Alessio, or Alessandro or one of the several names that they all seem to be called. Sure enough when he turned round his name badge said Giuseppe, and so we started laughing. Then the second guy came to the counter and was called Alessandro, and that set us off. By the time we caught sight of the third guy and he was called Francesco, we were doubled over laughing and had to move away in case they thought we were crazy.

It is very relaxing to be back in England where the weather is suitably cold for this time of year and where you can have a conversation with a stranger, for instance about train tickets, and understand everything they are saying. Being able to make small talk was also a refreshing change.

I did find myself missing the Italian sound though so I sneaked in a bit of Montalbano after the usual Christmas films, to see if I could understand it better - of course I still need subtitles but I found it was easier to hear more words.

Today I was transferring things to watch over to my hard drive so I have something to look at when I go back. I happened to see on there the recording of "Dinner for One" - funnily enough New Year's Eve is the traditional day in the year when Germans and other European countries watch this old comedy sketch with England's own Freddie Frinton.  You can read about it here.  The original sketch is on YouTube.

I must have heard the script a hundred times when we made our own version a few years ago. Here I am in the starring role of Miss Sophie. A little slower than we wanted it maybe, but still great fun to make, especially dressing up and acting on stage in a real auditorium. 

Happy 2015!

End of term fatigue

I was so tired today during my last lesson of the week, I could have cried, and I nearly went to sleep when I shut my eyes to act out "nap". Making us work until 23rd feels a little extreme. The students are knackered too, and in last Thursday's upper intermediate lesson, we were laughing because the first few answers the students gave were all wrong, so everyone came across as needing a holiday. It was quite a nice class, actually; we'd all been for a pizza on Tuesday (a special Sicilian type called a pizzolo) and they were a bit chattier than last time. We stopped off for a traditional selz as well on the way home. So in the class, I gave them a Christmas quiz, which was fun because they did not know about some of our traditions, and then they had fun inventing some questions for me on a Sicilian Christmas, most of which I had to guess.

All week I have been doing Christmas themed classes, which sounds more fun that it probably was because I don't know that I chose the most exciting things to do - but I tried to get everyone to learn some basic facts about what we do in the UK. It certainly makes you see things from a new perspective when you are explaining them to someone else, such as why any of us continue to eat Christmas pudding, cake and mince pies when not many people like them, and I explained that although the Queen makes a speech we do not all listen to it. It's the same for them as the head of the country speaks on 1st January but no one listens. They do not seem to have one meal they have for Christmas Day. No one knew what a parsnip was, even when I showed them a photograph. Children get their presents at midnight on Christmas Eve, I think, and then on 6 January a witch figure brings sweets (or coal).

We have covered many confusing words this week: bough, although, enough (same spellings, different sounds), sleigh and mistletoe.

I managed not to use glitter in this week's kids' class, but instead we seemed to mess around for the entire 90 minutes. The school provided sweets and drinks, which you can imagine fuelled their hyper-activity.  They wanted to play bingo over and over again which was fine. Apparently the adults play cards or bingo over the festive period.

I was too tired this week really to want to deal with all the challenges that the various classes throw at me - but only one more day to go on Monday and then freedom. I can't say I'm looking forward to the travelling but I can't wait to get home for a bit.

I feel less and less sociable and also less and less part of things as a result - but I don't want to spend my entire time out late drinking, it's not for me. Instead I will have to concentrate on speaking Italian and finding new people to hang out with. One nice student who is around my age or a bit younger, she has said she would like to meet up to talk Italian/English in the New Year which will be nice.

I dare say it all sounds exotic and exciting here because I save the best bits for the blog but in fact it's a real mixture of ups and downs and I don't or can't say all the things which are negative. It is quite a tiring experience, it is a real challenge, it seems impossible to rest fully even though I sleep well, the language is still a struggle, and I am struggling with some other things. Catania is tiring, dirty and smelly, and covered everywhere with graffiti and dog mess, although perversely it's grown on me. Etna is still beautiful, when I get to see her. My student said it snowed in his village on Etna the other day. It's gone much colder here. All of 6 whole degrees.  I don't know how I feel about it all right now, I feel it is good to keep experiencing a different place, the students are nice, but I could be happier about a whole load of things. But I feel it exerting a strange pull on me so I guess I will be back in January - I realise it takes time to adjust to a new culture and this was interesting reading. I have realised I like the challenge of teaching and I am glad to have this, even if it is tiring. Some other challenges I could do without, but it is "an experience".  Some of my students have been very nice about my teaching so that is encouraging - I know I am just a beginner and have much to learn. I know I'm not a loud and dynamic teacher like some and have lots of tricks to pick up to improve how I am, but I am glad that they seem to like me as I am.

Oh and the worst thing, the worst thing about being here is that I have already missed Still Game live and now I have to miss Burnistoun live in March, because I am here, and cannot go. Only the two comedies I love the most. Being in the same room as Iain Connell and Robert Florence is only an unthinkable dream and now I will have to be in this place instead. It is seriously galling.

So Buon Natale as they say here, Auguri. Eat lots of panettone and pandoro, they are both very nice.

This morning there was a surprise outside on the main road: some drummers and trumpets, with some men whirling flags. There was a classic car event (it was all a bit random) with some classic cars along the road, men staring at them, and near the cafe was a large white horse and a painted carriage. The horse was dressed in all sorts of finery, and in the carriage were 3 men in traditional costume playing the rather nice whistle/flutey/pipe thing that they have here. I like it. The cart was painted all over with figures and flowers - on closer inspection there were pictures of people slaying each other, so who knows what that was about. I couldn't help thinking the horse looked like it was dancing as it was moving back and forward a little but probably it was just uncomfortable having to stand there, when it would probably rather have been in the parade, or looking at the classic cars.

 

The drums were cool, they went right through you, but strangely enough the road hadn't been closed so cars were driving past and the men sometimes had to get out of the way. It was a nice change and after watching from the balcony I went down to see the horse and look at the cars.

Jo, Beth and I had to abort a trip to Taormina because it turns out the bus timetable has changed for winter - but on the way to the bus stop we saw a fabulous view of Etna between two roads. The galling thing is, the view of Etna from Taormina will be absolutely amazing at the moment because the sky is so clear - the snow on the peak must look incredible. Oh well, another time.

The Christmas present situation is looking good; I have now sorted most things for my flight, and I just have to figure out a few things for the other end now.

More looking around

This week has gone fast and finally there is only one week to go. I think lessons went well this week. I had to give some of them a short test to see how they are all progressing. Everyone seemed to do well, in my opinion, so I hope they will be encouraged by what they have achieved so far.

I managed to get through subject/object questions without further confusing my intermediate group. They are nice, just three girls, one of whom turned out to be an excellent actress last week when I asked them to act out a phrase on a card. She was just brilliant and it was easy to guess what she was doing. This week we were talking about Britishness and they also did some quiz questions on Italy for me.

I actually had fun in the kids' class. I've made several trips to a local stationer's shop which is run by a woman and her two sons. The sons are helpful because they know I can't say much in Italian. It turns out "glitter" is the same word when used in the context of "glitter glue" which came in very handy for some reindeer the kids made. They drew around their hands so the fingers form the four reindeer legs and the thumb makes the head. Everyone found it hard cutting out antlers, so I ended up doing lots of them, but they all enjoyed decorating the reindeer bodies with glitter glue, even though it was in such quantities it did not dry in time for them to take the reindeer home. They're supposed to be tree decorations. We also sang Rudolph The Red-Nosed Reindeer - well, I sang it to them and they made an attempt to sing what they could - I suppose we will do it again next lesson and they might pick up some more. We did actions, which they all followed very attentively. Yes, I've warmed to them a lot recently and had a bit of a soft moment when they were all calling for my attention as usual (Bet-han, Bet-han, because no one can pronounce the "th" properly). How nice it would be, I found myself thinking, to have someone calling for you like that. Except a kid of your own would hardly call you by your first name so that isn't quite right.

We went over to Darcy's flat yesterday and then on to Aci Trezza. I can't do the whole late night and drink thing any more so I was trying my best to drink as slowly as possible and it seemed to work. I am already missing the Australian woman being here, because she was nearer my age.

This morning, inspired by Deanna's exhortation to find things out for myself, I took her guide book

with me and headed into town to try to find the other amphitheatre. I found it in a spot that I have passed frequently and never realised it was there, beneath the level of the road, in a pit. It was huge in its day but is now just some arches and columns. I don't know what it is about Catania but even when you read or hear about things that are supposed to be good, they always seem a bit disappointing. Anyway - one thing that was just the opposite today was Etna. There is a long street where you can see Etna at the top - today she was clearer than I have ever seen her while I've been in Catania. She looked amazing - you can't see the top or the whole outline but just one slope and you could see the snow and it seemed like she was really near. It was so impressive I kept turning round to stare.  Ella and Beth went to town later and Ella knew of a hotel where you can get a panoramic view from the top - so she came back with an amazing photo of Etna over Catania's roofs.

the swordfish is on the table

I decided to check out the fish market, la pescheria, as this is a well known feature of Catania (we are right next to the sea). I did not realise but it's right behind the elephant square. It was quite impressive in a fish-markety sort of way - bearing in mind that I don't eat fish and inwardly was wholly unimpressed by the display of marine carnage. Seeing such beautiful creatures (including poor octopuses) set out on the ice is not my idea of a nice view, but I did want to experience this very Catanese thing. Poor swordfish, who are enormous, were on many stalls, with their heads there to look impressive or something - their swordlike noses are so long.  Luckily there was one nice thing to look at; the Catanese fishmongers weren't too bad looking, but you know I'm not obsessed - it is just nice to observe different looking people and some of them are quite arresting. It made me smile because Sophie and Rickard, who I met in Taormina, always joked I would marry a fisherman (or pescatore).

Next to the fish market are some meat stalls, which I hastened past. I had been warned by the guide book and I did see one of the things it mentioned, which I will spare you, because it was something out of a nightmare. There were also some more fruit and veg stalls - the produce is really fresh and always looks good.  I had the nicest avocado today, it was so creamy and delicious. I don't think it was Sicilian but it was lovely.

The idea was to get some Christmas presents today, but I have resorted to doing it all online and I can't even decide what to get some people. It doesn't get easier to think of things. I honestly can't wait now, it feels so close. I suppose coming back will be hard after going home but at least I have one or two students who I will feel motivated to come back to.  So this final week I am going to either finish giving tests or return the marked tests, and then sod work, we are going to do Christmassy things - learning about what we Brits do on Christmas Day (basically open our presents, eat sprouts, ignore the Queen, watch a film, squeeze in some trifle). It seems like they don't have a special meal they all eat here, they just have pasta or something. I was asking my student friend, who I met for a coffee and our Italian/English practise last weekend. He just gets a few days off, like most people, which is a shame as he seems stressed by work, so I am lucky to get two weeks off.  His class and I are going for a pizza on the last day (we have the last lesson on Monday 22nd) so that will be nice, before I go home on 23rd.

Action packed 24 hours

Since the last blog post yesterday I've had a pretty action packed 24 hours. Christmas has definitely come to Catania hoorah! I was in town earlier today and the shops were open, even though it is Sunday, and people were shopping - plus there were proper Christmassy lights everywhere in the streets, etc. Fab. The Christmas tunes are now on whenever possible. The Christmas present dilemma remains the same here, as it is in the UK, ie I see something I think someone might like, I don't buy it straight away, and then I forget where it is.

ravioloni

chocolate mmm

Anyway - since yesterday: last night some of us went to a nice restaurant in the centre for Deanna's last night. Once we had all figured out what was on the menu (some of us are still learning Italian), I went for a ravioli which was based on the traditional Sicilian "pasta alla norma" which means it has aubergines, tomato and ricotta salata cheese. The aubergines tasted amazing. The other dishes were kind of the things you get on Masterchef with pieces of meat or fish with strange accompaniments - Darcy had pork with chocolate sauce and pears and everyone pulled a very impressed face when they tasted it. A student had recommended the place and also the four chocolate dessert - we shared it - there were four little puddings each with an increasing amount of cocoa in, so the first was white chocolate and cinnamon (mmm), the second had cardamom (mmm), the third was like a brownie (mmmm) and the last one was a rich what-d-y-ma-call it that they make on the tv where the middle is all gooey. I literally can't remember. But they were goooood!

Then we went to a little bar where there is a darts board and although none of us can play, we all had really good fun having a go. I think that although British/American/English teachers' nights out are well oiled by local wine or overly strong cocktails, and shots that Nesh brings out of nowhere, it was the darts that were fun and we agreed that Sicilians seem to take things a bit seriously - naturally the noise we were making attracted a few onlookers (one of whom kindly said he thought I was 25, hahah, he did have glasses). But they all looked quite serious. Anyway - we had fun. Ella, who genuinely didn't seem to know anything about darts, was a natural - isn't it always the way! But I actually fluked a treble 20 too, when no one was really looking.

180!

Apparently not many clubs were open and Darcy's husband wanted to go to a club where some friends were, which was a hip-hop/rap place. None of us are into that but it was quite an experience. I am seeing new bits of Catania and it feels good. There were a load of kids, mostly boys, in the club, well they all looked young to me! - but not your usual chicly dressed lot - these lot were in normal clothes and I actually felt my leggings/skirt/hooded top fitted in ok. There were two rappers rapping away in - presumably Sicilian? - or Italian - but actually although I couldn't really get any of it, it sounded good - Italian is a great language for that - and the kid clearly had something to say - the audience knew it all and loved it, there was passion and authenticity. Unexpectedly, I enjoyed it. Jo somehow got herself a job behind the bar, or what I mean was, she was there giving out drinks, I have no idea why. The boys of Catania really are a nice looking lot. It's not even the pretty boy, well groomed model look that you might associate with Italian men. It is a certain look, they definitely have - is it a Sicilian or a Catanese look? - and although maybe you would not say, "wow he's stunning" about many, they have a good look going on. I don't see the same in the UK. Not that it matters :)

flea market

This morning I decided to go into town to find the flea market that Deanna had mentioned. Luckily I chanced upon it as I didn't understand the map, and it was quite big. I was hoping I would find some Faberge, you can never give up hope, but it was generally full of tat, like the car boots and markets in England. But with a few more pictures of Jesus and religious things thrown in. Everything was a bit pricey too. So I didn't find anything.

duomo and elephant

After that I thought it was high time I went into the cathedral, to say hello to my Aussie pal's namesake, St Agata. You can't see her (there's a highly jewelled version) until her feast day in February, which apparently is a real spectacle in the city. Can't wait, we get the day off. I happened to go into the cathedral, which by the way is disappointingly plain inside, when the mass was on. Oh hooray. But I needed a sit down so I took a side pew, and took an anthropological look at what was going on. The priest was droning on about Jesus, and Salvatore - ah, no he wasn't talking about my student friend but his name means Saviour :)  All the Sicilians were doing the whole crossing yourself bit, even the pretty boys, and I looked on with a feeling of relief that I am totally free from all that stuff. It was a nice five minutes to think about things though (NB NOT RELIGIOUS THINGS). Tomorrow is the feast of the immaculate conception. Which is fine if it means the day off.

I enjoyed an espresso shot (they are so good) and a lovely croissant in the cafe in the square with the elephant. It's a statue in the main piazza that is the symbol of Catania. It was a lovely day and quite hot in the sun - the sky was very blue! I had to take my hooded top off so I was in a t-shirt. Sorry I know it's cold in the UK. But the Sicilians think it's cold, they're all in their coats and stare at me for taking off my jacket.

Roman theatre

Next I decided to continue the touristy theme and headed up to the Roman theatre that is near the elephant square. Usually it's 6€ but today by a stroke of good luck (maybe a gift from the elephant), it was free. It is quite large and very well preserved - it seated 1500 people for entertainment. It wasn't uncovered until the middle of the 20th century - they didn't realise it was there for ages as people had built houses on it - they only realised when they saw that the buildings were in a semi circle shape and asked why. 

blue sky and elephant

Some guy started talking to me on the way back up the main shopping street. I thought he was just being polite, but he tried to give me his phone number. That's not fine. He was not young. It's never the ones you like is it? :)

Catania looks nice in the sun. Said goodbye to Deanna yesterday and she urged me to do things for myself in Catania - so I have started today, as I mean to go on.  You may have picked up on it already, I think there was a bit of Pride & Prejudice going on with me, thinking I had not much in common with people - everyone is really sweet, and I am enjoying getting to know people better. 

This week

We have a new flatmate, Beth, who is also a teacher - she's only 22 but she has done many things such as teaching in India. She is really lovely and has fitted in so quickly. It feels like she has been here for ages. Her first night was a bit crazy - she turned up at night, so we were there to welcome her with pizza and the other teachers. Later that night there was a loud crash and Darcy and I discovered that a large area of plaster had crashed to the floor from the ceiling in one of the bedrooms. It was all very weird. No fewer than 6 Sicilan men came to look at it the next day (god knows what they all do) but they fixed it the next day, so fingers crossed, everything is now fine.

Next day Beth and I went for a walk along the seafront (lungomare) which was nice. The rocks are all black and volcanic. It is still warm-ish. Cooler at night. But you can still hang around without a coat. And usually without a jacket. (Sorry!)

It is finally Christmassy here - lights have gone up across the roads, from flat to flat - mostly plain white but it is still better. Some stars have gone up outside the school. There are many poinsettias everywhere. I think people were even Christmas shopping today.

I have ordered things online to arrive at home but I would still like to bring back small things from here if I can find anything I won't squash or eat before I get back. It is still two weeks before we finish and they seem like an eternity. Although I have got lots to do before then so they will go quickly. Or should that be they are going to go quickly. I don't know any more. The more you do grammar in class, the more you begin to question how you speak, yourself. I got in a right pickle with subjects and objects this week and had to make out that I did not want to confuse the students and would come back to it next week afresh. What I meant and what I am sure they knew I meant is that I did not really know what I was talking about :) Now I am beginning to understand when people say things get better after a year of teaching: it will take that long to go through all the various aspects of grammar and figure out what they all mean.

On Wednesday we had our first Italian lesson at the school - it turns out the teacher is Marina, who I had for 2 weeks at Taormina! So that was lovely, to see her again, and everyone enjoyed the class. It was much nicer to be a student again than a teacher. We had the lesson in my room so it was weird to be the other side of the desk - and I realised what a bare and horrible room I have! I really need to take back some lovely pictures.

I had my class observation: naturally it went so badly I laughed about it in the end. Mind you, my Director of Studies did not stay for more than 45 mins so I hope that means it wasn't as much of a disaster as I thought it was. The teenagers were all shy and actually hiding behind their hands, even the one I was counting on to speak up as he usually does. At least he was there, unlike his friend whom I was also hoping would be his usual cheery self. The CD started skipping. I was nervous and wooden. But I'm sure it will be ok.

The kids' class was actually quite fun: never mind learning, we did some Christmas words and then launched into making Christmas cards. Tree or snowman. I did one of each so they could choose. It was panning out fine until they asked for the glitter. I had envisaged gently sprinkling glitter on to each card for them. But in the end I let them do it themselves. You can probably imagine what the place looked like afterwards. Marika sprinkled glitter into Matteo's hair. Giorgia had glitter all over her face. Her glue ended up on the floor and she looked like she was going to cry. The parents were coming at the end of the lesson for 10 minutes to find out how the class is going. Thank god my room is too small for them so they went next door and did not see the glitter explosion that had happened over their children. Glitter was all over the table, all over everyone's hands, faces, etc. You had to laugh. Once they had gone, I tried to sweep it up off the floor, but it is still everywhere. It was all over the chairs. I went into the corridor. The floor was glittering back at me. I followed a trail of glitter down the stairs out of the school and there was even glitter on the pavement outside. Hahahah!

The teachers, plus a husband!

Last night we went out for an aperitivo (food and cocktails at lovely prices) in a nice bar with, I noticed, a rather nice looking owner. It was for our Australian workmate who is going home for good tomorrow. It is a shame, because she is nearer my age and I find her easy to get on with - she has been very helpful by suggesting many things to make me feel more at home. But it is very exciting for her, as she is going back after being here for 2 years, with I think not many trips home in that time. So we are out again tonight. I tried her favourite drink, a negrino - a campari based drink. Strong but very nice :) One is enough.

Then today I met up with my student with whom I tried to practise Italian last time. He'd missed the class so it was a good reason to sit in my local cafe and tell him all about the way we use "going to." It was very nice because he makes me laugh (not many things in Catania make me laugh) and he makes me speak Italian. He thinks I should set up my own school - all in good time. Maybe in Taormina, I said, but he said that was too far for him to travel to, which was sweet. He uses his English at work and was saying how difficult it was when English people send abrupt emails about sending the remittance and the payment window.  I told him I don't even know what all those words mean. I will look for a book with useful business jargon in. 

As it is nearly Christmas we have had to find our own Christmas music as there is hardly any around, so that is getting me in the festive spirit. I hope it does not snow before Xmas as I want nothing to stop my journey home!

I will take some pictures for the next post - I will take some before I come back to show everyone what things look like. (Now I have confused myself about when you use "will".) Anyway - it struck me that the whole place is covered in graffiti and dog mess - nice eh. There is a strange contradiction there that some Sicilians look at you if you are not dressed as stylishly as them, but they don't seem to respect the place they live in. My student was talking about how hard it is because of the high unemployment, so maybe this is reflected in how people treat the city - it's complicated here, that I can see.

This weekend we have a bank holiday weekend whoo hoo!

Maybe because it's nearly Christmas, and I'll nearly be home, but I think things are feeling better here :) And (although I don't like Elton John) here is my absolute favourite Christmas song.

A brighter day

It has been some week in terms of mood swings and emotions: all very much hormone-driven I suspect. Those of you reading who are female will understand. But I don't doubt that some of it is part of the experience of living here and Actually Working for a change. (It's tiring :-)

I was, I think, at an all time low the other day, but one that was a combination of tiredness, hormones and maybe the change in the seasons. It is now dark at 5 (if not earlier. I never notice because I'm teaching). Plus it is definitely getting chillier. I need to get a blanket - I was lent out but they want it back; I only have a couple of thin fleecy things because they were cheap. Who wants to buy a blanket which they are not going to take home with them? Anyway I will investigate.

Wow, Christmas may finally have arrived in Sicilia. Not only have the school mentioned it - with a view to meeting for a meal and for doing Xmassy things with the students (I propose starting on 1 December, perhaps this is too early) - but the shops are putting up more decorations and Christmassy things. Apparently lights in the street are the (oh my god what is the word?) the responsibility of the shops, so there is no council lighting - no council nothing probably, given what I have heard about things here and I am sure you all have some idea why.

So yesterday was nice and I began to feel less low because the students of my upper intermediate class had suggested going for a pizza together, and the other teachers and a few of their classes came too. So we went to a really nice pizzeria down by the sea front - it's called the lungo mare (I think) and I think translates roughly as sea front. Or promenade. It's the road alongside the sea, anyway, which is not far from us. So my student ordered us some typical Sicilian starters, and a selection of pizzas, so we could all try different slices. He also asked for some local wine from the Etna region which was nice - light and fruity. The nice thing about Italians - and the Spanish - is that they are happy to have just a small amount and unlike British people do not feel the need to drink lots. Which is good for me. The food was really delicious. I did try to speak some Italian but it is still basic, so it was quite painful. But I am pleased to say we start lessons with the school next week.  I was sat with the two brothers in the class who are both doing medicine (I have some very bright students) and I was talking to the younger one about Sicily and Christmas, and what they do. He, unlike most people, wants to leave Catania and go somewhere else. Earlier, in our class, I asked them to discuss zoos and it seemed to go well as they thought up some good points for and against. I, of course, could rant about the subject for hours, but I managed (I hope) to let them speak instead of me.

Today went well - the hormone induced darkness has lifted, hooray, and so although it is a long day when I have four lessons, (sorry but it does feel like a long day!) I enjoyed them. My last class, one of my pre-intermediate groups, also asked me for pizza one day as a pre-Xmas thing - so it's really nice. I did a revision class with them about many of the things we have covered up until now. I was very pleased and relieved that they remembered everything and even remembered more than I did about one of the grammatical tenses. (I probably should not say that here). But I was happy to see that they have learned and retained things - all their own work I should add, as I have not learned it for them. I don't know why, but it struck me during the lesson that really it's all about people needing or wanting to be liked - what I mean is that it is so important to me that my classes like me, and being invited out by them is reassuring. And I can see it is important for them to know that what they say and how they learn is also respected and encouraged by me and the other classmates - in short, that we all get on well with each other.  Does this ring a bell, I hear you ask, a Carl-Rogers-shaped bell? Yes indeed it does. Milo and I learned many a thing about Carl Rogers once upon a time and his work can be helpful in thinking about teaching.

As I was saying to Jo, being a teacher means being many things (as I am finding out); not only do we have to understand grammar, etc, but there are different skills we have to learn such as recognising how to motivate and encourage our students. It is essentially about understanding people - which we all know is not always easy.

So... the teaching side is interesting and I just wish I had more time to think about the best approach for each person and each class.  Today I had the ragazzini (no longer will I be referring to them as teens) and honestly, I explained adverbs and comparative adverbs so badly, it was cringeworthy. But perhaps we can come back to them soon.

I meant to blog ages ago how I had totally overlooked their ages one day. We were doing ".... ago" so for example, I watched a film a week ago. I was giving other examples on the board, "ten years ago, twenty years ago..." I wrote. Then I realised and said to them, "oh, except you are not old enough to remember anything 10 years ago (they are 12+) and you weren't alive 20 years ago!"

I'm sure I had many other things to say but can't say all of them here. My sister recommended the series "Detectorists" to me - if you haven't seen it back in the UK, then I recommend it. It is so well written, with subtle and very British humour - the characters are well drawn and it is very human. Absolutely beautiful :-)

Weekend

My god, have gone into shock over the cost of the course, as what I'd hoped was a year's cost was actually for a term. So I really hope the students feel happy with what they are getting. But they continue to turn up, so that is a good sign. And the occasional ones who don't, well I expect they have better things to do as it is quite a commitment to attend twice a week, in the evening after work. Last week one of my pre-intermediate groups were saying how they were at work all day so often felt tired by the time of the class (8-9.30pm). I understand how they feel as I used to struggle with my Welsh lessons which were at the same time, and I would often have to stifle my yawns - not because of the lesson but because it was late.

Yesterday Jo and I enjoyed an "aperitivo" with our Australian workmate, at a bar not far from the school. In many places you can get a cocktail and some food for a good price. It is usually a cold buffet where you help yourself, and although I played a bit of veggie Russian roulette - I wasn't sure which things were entirely meat free - it was very nice. The food is always fresh and tasty. The cocktails always seem strong so be warned if you ever visit, you do not need to go mad.  A little bit helps you speak Italian though, so Jo and I were attempting to speak to some of the Sicilians there. They drink some weird things: one looked like mouthwash and another tasted vile.  It was a nice evening and Deanna has given us a list of places we can go (as sadly she is leaving soon). There's a jazz bar that I have heard about, which sounds like a must, as luckily Jo is a jazz fan too. When we went to Taormina we saw a postcard of the bizarrely freakish monks' catacombs in Palermo, which I saw on a programme with that Italian guy, Francesco. We have to see those, if just for the horror factor. Palermo is a day trip away but perhaps we can go one day. There is also the Teatro Massimo in Catania that has opera and ballet: last week I made an attempt to see if I could see "Coppelia" but obviously the place was closed when I walked there and they didn't answer the phone later that night. But another time.

Last night we were laughing about how none of us can say anything now, in English, without an accompanying hand gesture. We can't stop even if we want to, and I had to sit on my hands at one point just to stop illustrating every word visually. Clearly we all understand English so there was no need to gesture behind our shoulder for something in the past (a standard sign), or perform meaningless hand signals to indicate the shape of an object. I just can't stop now. It happened after the CELTA course too, because you become used to explaining things by gestures as well as words. God knows what our families will think when we return at Xmas and say, in a loud, clear, slow voice, "Please can you pass me the sprouts?" with accompanying hand gesture for round green vegetables. Also Deanna and I are both speaking with a bit more of an Italian stress on the ends of words (in English). Can't help it. Apparently someone asked her what language they spoke in Australia, and also, if it was November here, what month was it there?

I had a nice experience today. I have been wanting to set up a language conversation exchange and went online where you can find other people wanting to do the same. Well, although I had lots of replies and also emailed people, when it came to it I was not feeling confident about meeting people. So instead I thought about asking a student, because I already know them. I asked one of my students who is very keen to improve his English and also he is talkative and funny and near my age. He is quite lively in class. So today we met for lunch in Catania. He always tries hard to say things in English and although he does not think that he speaks well, I think his English is improving all the time. He began helping me to practise Italian by insisting I say things in Italian to him - this is what I need or I just chicken out. It was slow-going because it takes me a while to think, but he has helped already by teaching me useful words like ragazzini (teenagers) and telefonino (mobile phone. That one made me laugh). Also he was very nice and said some nice things about my teaching, so that was kind. He wants me to meet his girlfriend who also speaks English as he thinks she will be able to help with the Italian grammar. Neither of us thought to bring any paper, so he wrote on the napkins. Anyway, I had a nice time and we had a laugh about things, and when we were coming back he was showing me different places to go. So maybe this could be one way to meet other people outside work. Fingers crossed.

fatigue

Maybe because it's only 5 weeks before Xmas or because 2 months in Catania is enough for anyone, I am beginning to miss home and am looking forward to returning. It's still mild here (where is the snow? Come on, it's November). And I am now working my maximum contracted hours, so I feel quite tired. I am spending less time preparing, thankfully, as I now have more confidence to work through things without spending hours looking at it beforehand. But still, it takes up a lot of time. Perhaps I am just workshy.

I have started doing a little Xmas shopping online - normal things that I can have sent to the UK from the UK. It is, I'm afraid, too bad if people are hoping for exciting Sicilian Xmas presents as there aren't really any, except food items and the chances of them breaking and going all over everything in my suitcase are too high. Never mind. Well it is the chance to support some favourite wildlife charities of mine, as I am really only interested in supporting wildlife because it seems it is increasingly being destroyed by morons. I follow many wildlife organisations and wildlife supporters on Twitter and so I suppose when I read their tweets about nature, etc, I see a lot of stories that are depressing all at one go. But also, it is encouraging to see how many people are equal fans of birds, bugs, animals etc and go to great lengths to help them. There are some beautiful photos of birds, animals and wild places that are a joy to see on my Twitter feed. I have recently started following someone in America who has posted lots of photos of the very colourful birds that come to her garden. At the moment they are battling with lots of snow and there have been some very snowy squirrels!

The other morning I heard a blackbird somewhere and some sparrows, so that was a welcome change. They are around somewhere, but I suppose in the noise of the day I do not hear them.

We have kind of finished doing zoos with the teenagers but I am still doing them with the higher level. They did not seem to know a lot of details about endangered animals so I am going to direct them to the WWF website and also Marwell and Whipsnade zoos, which were mentioned in the textbook. That way they will see some lovely animal photos plus find out about the endangered animals and what is being done to help them. Maybe the level of English is too high but I think they can get the gist and it will be educational.

I could not help smiling the other day when we were doing a passage called the "Helpful Dolphin" with the teens, about a dolphin that helped a girl in the water. They had to choose the correct word to put in the gap and one student gave the answer as "I was a dolphin" instead of "it was a dolphin". Now I am not laughing at this because it was all part of the student's learning experience, and it was an easy mistake to make, but what did make me laugh was his class mate's reaction, because he said, in Italian, "sei un delfino?" "Are you a dolphin?" in such a way that everyone started laughing and I had to bite my tongue because it was making me chuckle.

I am sure my teaching is going okay but I feel there is much to improve on and having inadvertently seen how much the students are paying for the course, I don't know if I feel they are getting their money's worth! I know it is an ongoing learning process but I also wish I had time and energy to think how to improve. I made the mistake the other day of assuming the students knew something, when they didn't. It was compound adjectives, so something with two words like right-handed or well-known. The example (about zoos) was "A thick-billed parrot is a parrot with a thick bill." I read this out and felt it was so obvious that it was patronising. But in fact it wasn't obvious and when I left the students to do an exercise to explain what a man-eating tiger was (a tiger who eats men, ie people) they did not get it. One of the students said to me they don't have the compound adjectives in Italian and I realised I should not have assumed it was obvious.

Probably the answer to everything is lots of fresh broccoli, fruit, water and general relaxation.

Beautiful Taormina

Freaky aliens in palm tree?

Last night we had a welcome change to pasta, as our workmates took us to a thai restaurant. Most of the customers were Americans, who live on the airbase near Catania airport. Apparently it is the biggest base in the Mediterranean because of the strategic site of the island and its proximity to the middle east. Or something. Its full name is Naval Air Station Sigonella and you can read about it here.  It was not surprising as I think the Sicilians prefer their own food.

Today Jo and I took advantage of the fact it is still mild, and we can just about still go out without a jacket for most of the day. We headed off to Taormina in the sun, and arrived around lunch time. Wow, what a difference it makes to Taormina when the tourists are gone, but what a nice change! We were able to freely wander along without fighting through crowds of people and we could actually see the Corso Umberto clearly; even I noticed little shops and places I did not remember so well. Sadly for us, Crazy Crepes was closed, as were a lot of the shops, but many places were still open and so we had a crepe near the back of St Catherine's church which is at the top of Corso Umberto. I had Nutella on mine - seemingly a whole jar. An English woman and her husband came to the cafe so it was quite nice talking to them for a while.

Squirrel jumper, Corso Umberto

We had a leisurely wander down Corso Umberto and began to think about what it is practical to take back at Christmas, as gifts. Most food items are a risk as who wants to pack a jar of pesto and then realise it has oozed oil and pistachios all over your entire wardrobe. Plus everything in Taormina was Taormina prices so we will have to see if we can find something nice in Catania. Jo still has the option of the packed-out ceramics shop from which to choose something but I realised I have already done this gift option, in June.

Rather cool door handle, Corso Umberto

We reached the piazza from where you can see the mighty Etna. Today she was obscured by cloud but you could still see the snow-capped peak peeping through. She looks absolutely amazing with snow on and we are both waiting for a clear day for Jo to see the Teatro Greco, from where you get the most amazing view of Etna.

Etna is behind me with snow....under the bit of cloud.

Being in Taormina was a real treat today, as we both felt the need to get out of Catania at weekends, because it is such a busy and noisy city, it is a constant low-lying level of stress. Taormina was so peaceful and relaxing by contrast; there were no cars, no car horns, no stupid traffic. It was a real joy. I relaxed properly for the first time in ages, just as I had the last time I went. We lamented that it is actually harder to get work there because there is no English school, but I think we should at least investigate alternatives to the city we are currently in. As Jo pointed out, everything in Catania feels like a struggle; nothing in Taormina could be a struggle in that way, and it certainly presented no problems in June.

a seltz

We had a great view of the mainland today, which renewed my interest in going to visit. It would be interesting at least from an anthropological point of view to see any difference between the mainland and Sicily. I tried my first "seltz" - a lemon (or mandarin) flavour drink with salt in, which I think is for when you need a pick-me-up - it was a bit like drinking aspro clear but the taste grew on me. Jo's face, after taking a sip, was a picture.

We headed off at the end of the afternoon when it was beginning to go cooler. I could really do with a duvet now, it is going cool at night. But I do have blankets. We are both looking forward to Xmas, and despite the run-up being non-existent to very quiet here, we found a small Xmas shop and both can't wait to go home. Foodwise, I am craving toast here and baked beans would be good too. They do not have proper bread for toast, not that I have found, anyway.

We're going to the zoo, zoo, zoo

All in all it was a nice day, as my classes went okay and I think the teens even might have had fun. We are doing "zoos" in both the teen group and the upper-intermediates; it's probably no coincidence as the books are by the same people. But obviously you can discuss a bit more with the adults, if at the very least because some of them had actually been to a zoo and were old enough to remember one that was here 20 years ago. The teens, sadly, have not been to a zoo and so for me I felt sorry that they have not been able to see all the fabulous animals we were talking about.

I felt a bit weird during my teens class, so I needed something simple to do and luckily for me, there was an activity in the book about lists of things. You know, you make a list with commas and say "and" before the final word. So the perfect way to practise this (suggested, happily, by the book) was a zoo version of "my grandmother went to Spain" - "I went to the zoo and I saw a ...." For example, monkey, elephant, lion and a goat.  We went round the class twice, and I thought perhaps they would be tiring of it by then, but they insisted on going round a third time, so by the end we had a list of about 20 animals to remember. And everyone did very well. They helped each other by making some of the noises occasionally. Giorgia even mentioned a unicorn and Bernardo said "kiwi" so sometimes they surprise me with what they know. It was fun because they were remembering things without it being a chore and the challenge was in remembering rather than filling in gaps in exercises, as usual.

I am beginning to find that groups are now very relaxed in each others' and my company, and this week has been nice as probably I have begun to think of different and more interesting things to do, finally. The books give you the basics but for bright students you need something extra and also it breaks the monotony of the same sort of exercises, which they soon get through. I would say that the teenagers learn a lot of grammar at school and they seem to know it well. Jo and I think that perhaps schools do not teach any of them to offer an opinion on much, because we find it hard to get them to say what they think about things. I hope I am discovering the things that make them tick now. The teens enjoy creating things too (we did a zoo poster and a "new" animal). For one of my adult classes, they seem to like more practical things (piecing things together, drawing something which you describe, that sort of thing) and the upper-intermediates revealed a bit of a competitive nature last week when they were searching for words in the dictionary.

So we did endangered animals tonight and as zoos and conservation and animals is one of the most important subjects to me, I found myself getting quite passionate about it and asking them what they knew about issues, what was happening that was affecting animals and why. They knew a little bit, one man whose daughter loves zoos knew loads, which was very impressive. He even told me a place to go in Sicily to see wild horses. But I was soon beginning to rant a little about chinese medicine, poaching and other issues. I could hear the emotion creeping into my voice but perhaps this was good so they know I am human and don't just talk about nouns and adjectives. It was clear to me while I was talking that this is one subject that means the most to me and I would love to work in that field; I have been thinking about my time at the Nature Centre and how much I enjoyed it.

I am forgetting my English though; tonight Mattia asked me whether another word for a tank (as in a vat) was a receptive. Something in the far depths of my brain was saying do not dismiss this, he has something here. I looked in the dictionary. I thought. I had to defer him and say I would look and come back to him; I knew there was some word like it but could not for the life of me think what. The internet kindly reminded me, receptacle. What is happening!?

Tomorrow I have a new class of adults and I have the kids' class. Despite picking up lots of hints and tips this morning from other teachers, I still need to learn a lot about how to teach the kids. Maybe we can do animals (but we are supposed to be using the book. Well, at least I have "revised" animals myself this week!)

Digging my (new) heels in

I have been wondering, with all the little things that were going wrong, if either Etna or Sant'Agata (patron saint of Catania) was trying to dissuade us from staying here. I can't work out which and that is probably the problem, that I have been trusting in both of them and they are historically in conflict with each other. Or something. I know Sant'Agata "stopped" the lava flow. I expect she didn't really.

Despite thinking we were safe to use the "second" sink in the corner of the kitchen, until the landlord can come to fix the main one, I went to make myself a cup of tea and found myself paddling through water. Oh, I'll just mop that up, I thought, it must be from last time. I opened the door to under the sink. The bucket was full to the brim with water. How is that possible, I thought. It turned out Jo had used the washing machine, which was connected to the same pipes I suppose. I opened the door to the corridor, where the cleaning stuff is kept (it is a large flat) and joy, the water was sloshing all over the floor, in the little room. Definitely don't want to be a plumber now.

Yesterday I checked out the local Sunday market. Far from finding a light duvet (it's getting colder) or any house-y things, it was only veg and cheese. But everyone was there, jostling at the stalls, and the veg was fresh and cheap. I have more broccoli than I could ever eat for €1 and I bought a large pepper and a fennel for 80 cents together! I made some rather delicious pasta with broccoli and a ricotta nut sauce (out of a jar). The freshness of the broccoli was amazing. Very tasty, and with vitamins literally going straight into my bloodstream with every mouthful.

On the way back from the market I passed some religious types who were doing the old Sunday call for other religious types, trying to save you at the roadside with a microphone and a guitar. There was some painful singing. You could still get the general gist, I mean you know what these people say in English so it was quite easy to pick out all the stuff about Jesus dying so you can live, etc etc. I walked on by.  Reminded me of a picture of Jesus we saw in the ice cream parlour back in Giardini Naxos. He looked quite handsome. Jo remarked at the time that even Jesus had to look good for the Italians, and that if there was a "sexy Jesus" at the church, she might be persuaded to go herself.

Today things are looking up: the landlord and his dad fixed a growing list of small things that needed fixing, so everything in the flat should now be working! Jo went to the gym, finally, after trying to join for 7 weeks, and came back on some sort of endorphin-high. Thank god she loved it. I had a nice lunch with my workmate and her Italian boyfriend who was quite encouraging when I tried to say a few things in Italian. Best news of the day, my phone is back on (hooray!!!!) and I bought some small boots, and another purchase, that are like an Ian Dury song :)  The only downside is having confused the pre-intermediates about the past continuous. I knew I would.

It's still warm here. Still not coat weather. We were sat outside having lunch. Madness.

The House of Him

As a glance at my sidebar will tell you, I am a big fan of writer and inspirational Glasgow genius Robert Florence, who is a prolific, multi-talented and interesting guy. Since first chancing upon the understated comedy, "Empty" a few years back, I found my way to gloriously original "Burnistoun" and have been following Rab and co-writer/actor Iain Connell on Twitter ever since. Along with fellow Glaswegians like Greg Hemphill (Still Game), they create a real buzz about Glasgow, (all are big fans of the wrestling scene) and make it sound the place to be.

Small wonder then, that since its release, I have been dying to see Florence's low-budget debut film, "The House of Him", a horror film with a significant difference. (I suppose I should say this blog "contains spoilers" but that should not stop you reading.) With a cast of three "Burnistoun" faces, you know the standard of acting will be high. "The House of Him" delivers tension with a slow, growing terror as you begin to realise it is no ordinary horror. From the opening scene I was gripped - I stared at the screen as poor (but wonderful) Kirsty Strain slid to the floor. Louise Stewart surpassed herself as Anna, convincingly taking us with her through different emotions, as she confronted a nightmare situation. Richard Rankin's "Him" was captivating. We saw the real killer appear from behind the mask, his deceptively "normal", boyish good looks at odds with the image of psychotic, skull-masked murderer. The appearance of everyday life - the striped jumper was perfect - jarred with the unsettling violence.

It is no ordinary slasher film, as this killer is no exceptional psycho. This killer is not one killer, but representative of many: those who are hidden in plain view, in ordinary houses everywhere. This is the reality of some people's lives. Anna represents all women who are at the hands of violent and abusive men and do not know how to escape. Florence exposes the real horror that some women have to face every day: the horror of living with domestic abuse and the threat of murder. The radio gives reports of a strange horror going on throughout the country, giving instructions for those involved, and it becomes clear that this is not just about characters in a film, but something bigger.

The use of the one setting, an everyday house (somehow made more normal knowing it is Florence's mother's house), is very effective. The small details - which I imagine were already there - heighten the terrible situation in their mundanity. The embossed wallpaper. The light shade. The dainty china cups from which Rankin's killer sips his tea. The chairlift that has never looked so eerie, gliding up the stairs.

Given the vast sums that are splashed on blockbuster movies these days, Florence certainly gets every penny out of his budget (less than £1000) and it is no poorer for it. In fact, it feels focused on the essentials. Florence Junior makes an impressive appearance - you just know that she could follow in her parents' talented footsteps.  I cannot omit to mention the subtle and effective score, by Iain Cook and David Simpson. It raises the tension just at the right moments, and adds to the growing unease throughout the film.

It's certainly interesting to see a serious side to the Burnistoun team's repertoire and I am sure that there is more to come. I find it personally inspiring to see such creative people, who have the initiative to make their visions reality. It is also great to see how this can be used for good, not only focussing attention on an important issue, but actively supporting charities through the promotion of the film. Future projects from Bold Yin, Florence and Connell's production company with House of Him producer, Joanne Daly, are certainly worth looking out for.

Rent "The House of Him" from Vimeo now, for less than the price of a pint.

spoke too soon

Jo and I sat and actually did some Italian today which felt good. She learns very fast, being fluent in French; I'm sure it helps. I popped out to the local shops in the evening slot, when they open again from about 4 til 8. It is a nice time actually, to be out browsing - it feels quite busy. I struggled through a few exchanges with shop assistants, including one with the guy whose shop I pass daily on way to school. We are now at last on speaking terms, although I'm never sure quite what form of address to use to him. Jo is sensible and reminded me of what my mother says - use back to them what they say to you. Which is ok if you hear it, or if they speak first. Anyway, he used a bit of English too and made out his English was awful - I couldn't detect anything wrong with it. I wanted to get some chocolates as a thank you for the boot incident on Friday - everything seemed very expensive in his shop, but not seeing any alternatives in my price range, I let him talk me into buying some chocolates - he'd already started wrapping them actually. I thought, if I want to make friends I will have to buy things in people's shops. But then all such items seem expensive round here. We left with him suggesting we swap English and Italian with each other. Perfect. Especially as he reminds me of Steve and Mikel Urdangarin mixed together. Oh and he's younger than I thought he was too.

So I arrived back home feeling that things might finally be looking up; although in very small steps. I mean it's fine, I'm not complaining really. But I allowed this tiny thought of happiness too much free rein because in the next second, as I was washing up, I heard a clunk and a gush and to my unbridled delight I found part of the sink had come off in the cupboard below and water was filling the cupboard. Mopping it up put paid to my latest whim of retraining as a plumber. I hitched up my new cheap jeans (€12) from the Chinese shop, and broke the bit the belt goes through. Of course I did, because nothing can go right for too long haha. Out of all the things I did not bring, a needle and thread would have been useful and I bet would not have  put me over my weight limit either :)

Tropical cyclone!

Well, clearly that amount of rain is not normal, which is a relief. Overnight we were hit by a tropical cyclone that also hit Malta - there is not much on the news about it yet but it looks as if it did a lot of damage along the east coast here.

It started off, as you know, with the rain. Then when I was in bed I could hear this faint whistling. Just faint enough to be annoying. I told myself it was just the wind. But the wind picked up and soon it was raining hard again and the wind was getting louder. Well it just went on and on throughout the night and at times the wind was extremely strong and loud, roaring between the flats in a way that reminded me of the storm of 1987.  It wasn't quite that loud but sometimes there were gusts that made me want to hide under the bedclothes.

A door was banging somewhere, quite violently, and quite frequently. There are a lot of doors onto balconies here and they're not all that strong looking. I got up more than once to check that our doors were all secure, padding around in the dark to check that the rain and wind was not coming in. I was glad to see our pigeon huddled up for protection, well under cover, at about 4.00am.

The wind and rain just kept on, and so I remembered to pull down my window covers (I have forgotten the word haha!) and just kept a small gap open so I could see out. There were some weird sounds coming from the street - things flying about probably and bits of things breaking off things. At one point there was the unmistakeable sound of breaking glass. And more door banging. And other weird noises.

Sometimes I think Catania is like an orchestra, everything seems to fit together somehow, but an orchestra playing one of those modern discordant pieces of music. It certainly felt like it last night. Dogs and neighbours were surprisingly quiet. But I still didn't get much sleep, if any. I got to the stage where my eyes were hurting, I wanted to sleep that much.

So this morning everything has passed and fallen quiet and I have yet to go out and see for myself what damage has been done. It is a good thing I have some sturdy boots to go out in. Our flat is intact, so that is good. Wow. A cyclone. I guess this is all part of the experience

Jo slept through the whole thing. Unbelievable.

An unexpected kindness

The rain has come and it is torrential. The thunder was so loud last night (just the one clap to be fair) that I jumped. But the rain here lashes down and just does not drain away.

I popped back home between lessons for something and when I had to go back it was hammering down. I looked out. The roads were flooded, which is what seems to happen every time it rains hard. There was no other thing for it; I had to go in. Yes, I know I should have come prepared but I had been planning to get things this weekend - I've been ill with a cold, so I have not had chance to get a pair of boots or an umbrella. I left these in England. Well I was coming to Sicily when it was 30 degrees and I had to leave something out of my suitcase.

All the roads round the school were like rivers. Literally - there were a few inches of water in the road in all directions. I set off with fifteen minutes to spare but walked up and down roads trying to find a dry spot to cross. After getting a foot full of water there really wasn't much point in worrying so in the end I had to brave it - there was literally nowhere dry to cross - and my feet were wet through. The worst thing possible when you are recovering from a cold, I know. So I went into school in the world's foulest mood, blaming all of Sicily (to myself) for its stupid weather (when the truth is the only one to blame was me, because I hadn't gone to buy the necessary stuff).

The office manager, my manager and one of the owners showed sincere concern, knowing that I was recuperating. They insisted I could not be left as I was, even when I had taken my shoes off to dry. Part way through my lesson there was a tap at the door. Valeria asked what shoe size I was. I thought she was perhaps going to hunt in lost property.  A short while later I was asked to step out so I could try on a boot. Somehow Valeria's mother had become involved and had purchased a pair of boots for me from a boutique across the road. (I had walked past it and thought about going in to buy some boots, but thought better of it because I was already late for my class).  I tried them on and walked up and down. It felt a bit like being at the shoe shop. "How are they?" they asked. I liked them - funnily enough they are almost the same design as the pair I have at home.  I enquired after the cost, but the school owner very kindly insisted they were a present. Which I am still shocked by, in a good way.

I realise they probably all think I am a total idiot being unable to dress myself appropriately at my age, but it's been circumstances really, with me being ill and only here with minimum things. And I said how my entire family would be mortified and cross that I was not dressed appropriately. I do, thankfully, have my raincoat with me. But this weekend, now that I am better, I will buy a selection of winter items. It's not cold yet - it was 20 degrees yesterday in the rain which was weird. But it is not summer any more. I did read it rained in November, before I came, but I dismissed it (it's Sicily. How can it rain?) and the truth is I did not have space in my case for everything I needed. God knows what I did bring but it does not seem much now. I bought an umbrella on the way home. Not a cheapy one. A normal one.

So my faith has been restored in the Sicilian experience, a little. Things are starting to look up. Just slightly. Jo and I live to experience another day. It is still raining hard outside. We may not be going to the Botanical Gardens tomorrow but we will be doing some Italian lessons inside.

Things here have taken a strange turn over the last week, as if the whole island is out to test us. I don't know why but everything certainly feels like a struggle.

Unfortunately it seems as if our fun trips out to wilder parts of Sicily will not be continuing. This is for reasons that don't belong in a blog but needless to say it is all a bit dramatic, like something out of a soap opera. I did not come here for drama; given that it's Sicily, maybe this was short-sighted. Funny that where Sicilian men seem to be involved, things take dramatic turns, whether it's our housemate, whose fiance got jealous of her talking to her mother's boyfriend, or another girl's Sicilian partner, who flounced off in a jealous sulk one night when she looked at someone else male. I don't think Montalbano is like this, but then again he is not real and he is not exactly faithful to the awful Livia.

Plus, this is only Catania, the noisiest, smelliest city on this side of the island. Taormina it is not and I will not forget the four weeks I had there, which were among the best in my life. No, Catania will not spoil the rest of Sicily for me, with its endless car horns and dogs barking!

Jo and I have plans to visit the Botanical Gardens - we found where they are (naturally, they were shut when we went, I mean it was inevitable), but they look rather nice. It has turned colder here and I have been suffering with a cold and cough - I could really have done without it as who needs to feel even lower when everything feels rubbish anyway. But I am taking it easy and have not been in to teach for the past 2 days. I should be okay tomorrow maybe.

We went out on Friday for a Halloween club night outside Catania somewhere. We both needed a bit of a blow-out to clear the cobwebs away and were quite pleased that the club seemed to be full of handsome young men (mostly they know it but who cares). They really are nicer looking than in the UK, despite other failings. I met a nice young man with blue eyes and he was keen to tell me how unusual this was in Sicily, as if I hadn't noticed for myself. Funnily enough my Italian seemed to suddenly improve after a drink or two (or so I recall).

I am without my phone, which is really very frustrating. It would be nice to be able to contact people. Trying to get a replacement is both time-consuming and far from straightforward, especially being here. But hopefully it can be done. It has just been one thing after another recently and we are beginning to think things would be better elsewhere. Who knows, perhaps the grass isn't greener but it is certainly easier when you can communicate - perhaps the school might sort out some Italian lessons for us finally after being here 6 weeks already. Oh we had the most farcical Health & Safety meeting the other day - what to do if there is an earthquake (drop, cover, hold on) and fire. The boss seemed apologetic that we had to sit through it, saying they had to do it because of legal reasons and there had never been a fire before. I said "so it's not because you don't want your staff to die in a fire." Everyone laughed but I wasn't joking, I was being serious. No one ever took Health & Safety seriously in the UK either, so why I am surprised I don't know.

Anyway, we can only try to make the best of it and keep finding nice things to eat and nice places to go.  I can't post any photos :(

Chestnuts and Etna

On Saturday we went to Trecastagni, which is not far away and had some nice winding streets and a church high up with a fantastic view (it was night) across the city and up towards Siracusa (Syracuse). We went to see a festival where there were some traditional singers, one playing the accordion and one singing in Sicilian. There were some huts like you have at German markets, with crafts and fruit and vegetables and other nice things. There were supposed to be some horses with traditional Sicilian carts, but sadly they were not there on that evening. Perhaps another time.

The next day we went on a trip by car to the places on the slopes of Etna - I'm not sure exactly of our route but I think we basically drove a long way around the volcano and took in lots of different places. There are lots of local food festivals taking place at this time, so it was very busy - the Sicilians obviously enjoy celebrating their produce and good for them - we saw some lovely olives growing, citrus fruit, and we have seen lots of lovely sweet chestnuts growing on the slopes of Etna.

Since it rained last week and has gone colder, Etna's peak is covered in snow! It looks so amazing. We went to the valley of the Alcantara river - Gab told me there are very few rivers in Sicily. This was amazing because the rocks there are (of course) volcanic and look exactly like something from a film set - the light grey colour and the "blocks" of them look like they are plastic or manufactured. It was quite distinctive and quite unusual. We clambered about over them, with Whiskey the dog leaping around with the usual agility of someone lucky enough to be on four legs when we are teetering on two. There were also many interesting plants including wild cyclamen, wild artichokes, wild fennel and some things which Jo and Gab had fun sticking to each other's backs. There were some amazing stripy leaves that looked like they had been painted. I also saw some black beetles - and the ants seem larger here.

This was west of Taormina, and north east of Etna. We also went to the the village of Lingua Glossa, where there were some nice paintings on many of the walls, and a nice cake / pastry shop.

Afterwards we drove higher up the side of Etna to a place where there were many sweet chestnut trees - most of the chestnuts had already fallen to the ground and been taken by people or creatures - we had fun trying to get them out without stabbing our hands. I have just been eating some and they are very nice. We saw a massive four hundred year old tree (not a chestnut?)

I finally got to have a prickly pear fruit - they have soft, watery orange flesh with big seeds in. They were okay - an acquired taste maybe - not unpleasant but they would be better without the seeds. They were not unlike watermelon, that is the closest I can think of.

If you squint you can just see the snow on the left...?