Showing posts with label Pevsner. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pevsner. Show all posts

Sunday, 20 September 2015

More catching up

Another trip fonting took in Berwick St James (some previously unseen criss cross designs above the door), Winterbourne Stoke (a very pleasing font, small but chunky, sadly with the most hideous and out of place but apparently historical Jacobean font cover. We did not include it in our drawings). The archway over the entrance had some nice blob shape designs. We had a disappointing trip to Amesbury, where the priory was closed (what happens if you are religious and seeking solace, or persecuted and seeking sanctuary? Not much good if the church is shut), we stopped to enjoy the clear waters of the Avon where some ducks were having a good time. Some keen walkers strode over the bridge, making it bounce rather uncomfortably. Another example of when people walking seem to think the point is to get from A to B in the quickest possible time, instead of actually looking at what is around them.

On to Durnford, described rather simply by Pevsner so that we were expecting merely a font with some sort of design on it. (All our trips are based on the information taken from Nikolaus Pevsner's architectural guides. He and his wife spent many years going from church to church across the UK, while he documented everything. From this my sister has extracted the bits about Norman and Saxon architecture. How he had time to look at everything we marvel to comprehend. But then again he does sometimes miss things out or gloss over the most amazing features. And we can understand why - just doing 4 or 5 churches is sometimes exhausting).  This was the case in Durnford. We weren't expecting much. But it was quite amazing. Over the doorway were some wonderful and unusual shapes that look like shuttlecocks. I pushed open the big heavy oak door (I love some of these old doors! They are from centuries ago).  I looked round. I gasped. The font was amazing. So intricately and elaborately carved with a design covering all of it. The design looked like little faces. That would be hard to draw... I looked round again. Gasped. There were carvings in the wall. Looked more. Gasped. Remnants of paintings on the wall.  Went further in and looked at some capitals - gasped - 2 perfectly preserved and hilarious animals. Read about the church from their information. Gasped. The back pews were 16th century. Drawing the fabulous font was of course tricky but fun, specially sitting on the ancient pews.


Durnford font

Durnford, a smiling bird

Sunday, 4 May 2014

Elkstone, Stratton and Daglingworth

It is not usually sunny on a bank holiday weekend, in my recollection, so my sister and I took the opportunity to go back to the area around Cirencester to see some more Norman and Saxon church carvings that we had rated those most worth visiting ("pink" on my sister's thoroughly researched maps). Once laden with the necessary snacks, we went up to Elkstone which is between Gloucester and Cirencester. Elkstone church is well documented for having a large amount of Norman carving, both inside and outside the church. It has all the different features which you could hope to find, namely, carved "beakheads" over the arch of the doorway, sculpted tops to the columns, a tympanum, animal and people heads outside on the walls, and inside, Norman carved arches with zigzags and flowers. We did not really know where to begin.

I was drawn to two dragons' heads that were inside the church, one each side of the first arch. Both were very well preserved, due to their position, and showed rather amusing teeth. I drew the right hand one, rather inaccurately, but it shows the overall character. In front of and behind the altar were two more decorative arches, the far wall having a pleasingly irregular zigzag pattern, and flowers, (with one tiny zigzag and flower squeezed in as if they'd planned wrong), and a detailed face pattern on the ceiling.

Outside, the door reminded us of Siddington (where we could not get into the church), as it had beakheads in a similar but not identical style, with one face having two arms holding the adjacent beaks closed and a double beaked creature. As well as beakheads, there was elaborate carving on seemingly every available column top and arch. In the centre of the arch, in the semi-circular space over the door (the tympanum) was a carving of Jesus or a religious figure, surrounded by animals including a jaunty lamb of God, a bird with some writing, and two more. We drew the lamb of God, as it was too complicated to try to draw any more. The lamb of God had a curiously rounded head which reminded me of a dolphin. Possibly the first "dolphin of God"?
I also liked very much the animal heads and figures on the outside of the church, high up under the roof. They were all different and included a centaur with a bow and arrow, a goat with a beard, a deer with antlers and an animal biting its own tail. There was also one that looked suspiciously like a dinosaur. My sister found the whole place slightly overwhelming, as did I, because there was so much to look at, it was impossible to know where to begin. Sometimes less is more, and simpler things are effective in their simplicity.

We moved on to Stratton, on the outskirts of Cirencester, and once I'd corrected my poor navigation, we found the church and enjoyed our lunch in the peace of the churchyard. As we walked down to the church porchway we had that sense of excited anticipation - what will the carving be like? Will the simple description in Pevsner translate to something quite impressive to behold? (Sorry, now I am using religious language!) I think that one of the enjoyable things is not knowing what the carving will really be like, as sometimes the book has simply failed to describe how unusual or impressive something is. Happily, the tympanum above the door proved to be very unusual, showing a complicated image of weaving lines and who knows what. It was hard to make out what was there, as some is worn, but you can see a spindly legged creature with a person's head, and long claws, next to a coiled serpent, and next to them possibly two more creatures with long legs, and a lot of foliage intertwined. The book said there was supposed to be a "tree of life" but we could not see a definite tree. Beneath the tympanum were what is known as saltire crosses.

Such is the other-worldliness and sense of another time with these places, is it any wonder that we are beginning to associate them with strange things? Last week after our successful trip to Harnhill, I could have sworn blind both myself and my sister had a photo of the dragon. But on further investigation neither of us could find one. Then this week, my sister took some photos in Elkstone and then discovered they were not on her camera. We get so engrossed in the drawing that we strode off down the road before we realised we'd not photographed the tympanum at Stratton and had to go back - much to the annoyance of a poor robin who had been trying to feed her chicks in a nest in the porch and hissed at us to get out of the way.

Our last stop was Daglingworth, west of Cirencester. It dated from Saxon times and had not one but four beautiful Saxon carvings, which were once, astonishingly, built into the church out of sight. I really liked these pictures, as they were done in a simple yet not naive style. One was of Jesus and the two centurions at the crucifixion, one was St Peter with his keys. The figures had interesting details such as their belts, done in a knot shape, and well observed hair and hands. They seemed so pristine. We generally prefer drawing animal shapes to human figures but these were rather impressive.


Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Drawings and dragons


Who would have known that inside the many churches throughout the country, lie so many interesting and different things to discover? My sister is very interested in Norman and Saxon carvings, which we have been drawing and which become an inspiration for artwork. She has devoted her time to going through the Wiltshire volume (and others) of Pevsner, picking out the churches where there are carvings and effigies that date back one thousand years or more. The earlier the better. She has joked that it is an obsession, as now there is a map of Wiltshire which we have colour coded to show the villages where there are carvings we wish to see. We have our work cut out, as there are many, but it is proving to be a great way to discover parts of Wiltshire which you would otherwise never see. The map helps us see where there are places near each other so we have been able to visit 2 or 3 places in one day.

Malmesbury Abbey entrance
 Our most recent trips took us to North Wiltshire, to the area around Malmesbury. If you want some idea of the peak of Norman carving, Malmesbury Abbey is the place to go: the doorway to the abbey is spectacular. There are no less than eight arches forming the entranceway, three which depict many scenes inside circles, such as people in boats, or animals, or people talking to each other. In between these are swirling designs, some like vegetation, others more geometrical. It must have taken the carvers a long time and would have been amazing in its time. It still is amazing, although some of the lower part is quite worn so it is hard to make out what the figures are doing. Within one circle, which I drew, it really seemed that someone was ironing great swathes of material; hard to imagine what else they were doing.  In the porchway are sitting figures, very well observed, although we felt their heads seemed squashed in under another figure.  Unfortunately for us we went along on Good Friday so the place was busy, but we managed to sit in the sunshine on a bench and the time flew by.

In contrast, we visited a tiny place in the middle of fields, called Little Langford, in the Wylye valley. It was a beautiful spot, undisturbed except for the passing trains, but a cool and inviting little church away from the village. It had over its door a wonderful early carving of a figure with three birds in a tree, and below him a boar, surrounded by three dogs, and a person. My drawing of it looked crude and childish but in fact the figures were simple and not entirely realistic in shape or size; the boars' feet were more like paws, and the dogs had long skinny bodies, but it was a very pleasing tympanum and I am happy with my effort. The archway over the top, a commonly found zigzag pattern, was notably different to usual zigzags in that it was not uniform in size; some zigzags were shallower than others and this asymmetry was very appealing.
Little Langford tympanum

I am constantly surprised by the differences between places; some churches are small and inviting; others are unexpectedly large in the middle of a small village. We have seen amusing heads of creatures (Steeple Langford), Jesus on a dragon (Stanton St Quentin) and a "tree of life" (Rodbourne). Rodbourne was particularly nice as it also had a small stained glass window of Adam and Eve by Ford Madox Brown, next to one of the Ascension by Dante Gabriel Rosetti. Who would think that they would come across Pre-Raphaelite glass in such a tiny place?
Tree of Life, Rodbourne
Tree of Life, Rodbourne
What is frustrating on our tour, for it is turning into that, is that in some places we arrive in anticipation of seeing something exciting, and yet when we try the big iron handle of the church door, the door is locked. It might have instructions as to where you can find the key (as in Rodbourne) or it might not; in which case it means we cannot see these things. I doubt there is a need to keep churches locked up as the crime rate in Wiltshire is surely low, and if there are items of worth in the church then keep them locked up. It strikes me as odd that churches of all places are not accessible, but we rarely see anyone on our travels anyway, not that this bothers me at all. 

My drawing is noticeably improving which is good and I am still using crayon to give an impression, rather than spend hours drawing the details. There are many more churches we wish to visit, such as yesterday, when we went to Whaddon.
Whaddon
Whaddon